Uriate Talavera in Puebla, Mexico

 

Recently I was in Puebla, Mexico, staying right in the historic center of town and one of the highlights was touring Uriarte Talavera.

 Founded in 1531, Puebla quickly became the center of talavera production for all of the Americas.

Uriarte Talavera is the oldest, largest and most prestigious manufacturer of fine Talavera pottery in all of Mexico, and was founded by Don Dimas Uriarte in 1824.  Talavera is named after the Spanish town, Talavera de la Reina.  Talavera is reference to the process which is very involved. 

Two different kinds of clay native to the region is ground and mixed.   Then molded into cubes, covered in plastic and let to rest.  Then the clay is kneaded before being thrown on the potters wheel.

It is then molded on a potter's wheel. 

The pieces are then left to dry for up to 12 weeks before the first firing at 1000C.  The orange colored piece that comes out of the kiln is called jahuette.

 

 

Each piece is dipped into this glaze and set to dry.   A design is later stenciled on the jahuete using templates of a variety of designs (indigenous, Spanish, Moorish and Far Eastern motifs).  Then the pieces are painted with natural dyes.  The azulejo-blue designs more indicative to Puebla.  

The piece goes into the kiln for a second firing.  By tapping the finished product, an expert knows by the sound that is has successfully been fired.

Each piece is signed and dated.

And given its own numbered code.

The beautiful tile on the stairwell that leads you up the second floor where you will find more handsome, contemporary pieces

such as this plate by Gilbert Aceves

and these striking vases by German Montales.

In another room are antique pieces in their collection.  This is titled, Mayas, by Enrique Ventosa.  He arrived in Puebla in 1897 and was enamored by the city's architecture, particularly the Talavera tiles that adorned the buildings.  He was befriended by a nationalistic group of artist and businessmen, Dimas Uriate being one of them.  He brought new energy to the industry, especially when he blended the old designs with Art Nouveau that was so fashionable in Europe at the time.

Here you can see the heavy influence of Art Nouveau. 
 

And lucky me, Len bought me this beautiful plate as an anniversary gift.  Just gorgeous.

 

My 2022 Schedule - Travels with Robin in colonial Mexico

 

 

I have two tours scheduled for 2022 in colonial Mexico:  

 

 A week in San Miguel de Allende in May 

 

 and

 

  Nine days in Oaxaca City and the surrounding areas in August 

SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE

Join me May 6 - 12 for a wonderful week in San Miguel de Allende where we will stay at a charming B & B right in the historic center of town.  

Experience the exceptional treasures of San Miguel;

its beautiful colonial architecture, delicious cuisine, native culture, comfortable climate, endless shopping and interesting museums.  A place I have lived and spent time in for over the past 40 years.  Because of my intimate relationship with San Miguel, I receive extraordinary service, have exceptional contacts and numerous resources in town.

A walking tour on Day Two 

 with lunch at one of my favorite restaurants where Chef Anna Lilia will prepare a special lunch just for us.  

 

We will take a few side trips. 

One will be a day over in  Guanajuato where we will experience the elegant architecture, 

 the beautiful Opera House, Diego Rivera Museum, 

world renown Gorky Gonzales’s ceramic studio and then enjoying a sublime, gourmet meal at the best restaurant in town.  

Another day we will visit an unique home, its grounds and gallery in the countryside (an experience that you will never forget), 

a tour of the Sanctuary of Atotonilco (often referred to as the Sistine Chapel of Mexico)  followed by a relaxing lunch out on the patio at an outstanding Italian restaurant where one of their specialties is Flor de Calabaza Ravioli  (hand-made squash blossom ravioli served with a light Gorgonzola sauce).

Another day, a cooking class with Chef Paco at his lovely home.   

And much, much more! 

 

Meet me in San Miguel de Allende

May 6 - 12, 2022 
 

 

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AN  OAXACAN ADVENTURE

For those who have been on my San Miguel de Allende tours, traveled with me to Chiapas, Mexico City and Puebla along on my Artisan and Architecture tour in the state of Michoacan, I know if you join me in August, Oaxaca will also capture your heart. 

The main plaza, the zocalo, is one of the most spectacular in all of Mexico with its gazebo that usually has mariachis or a marimba band playing in it at night, vibrant cafes and restaurants lining the plaza on the main and second floor, the Cathedral on one side, town's people visiting...  

We will be staying right in the heart of the historic center of Oaxaca City at the colonial Hotel Parador San Miguel.

One morning we will explore Monte Alban, the Zapotec ruins that was founded around 500 B.C..  

 At its grandest, over 25,000 people lived here.

Another morning at Mitla, ruins that date back to 100 A.D. with its distinctive geometric mosaics.

The architecture in the Oaxaca valley is diverse from this brilliant painted church in Ocotlan,

to the 16th century monastery in Cuilapan de Guerro,

to the Baroque Santo Domingo Church in the historic center of Oaxaca

to the Contemporary Art Museum that is in a beautiful colonial mansion dating back to the late 17th century.

We will take in a cooking class one day which includes a shopping tour of the market. 

Oaxacan cuisine is some of the most interesting and colorful in the world.

It is known for its use of Queso Oaxacan (string cheese), chocolates, tlayudas (shown above), empanadas with squash blossoms...

Famous for its numerous and diverse moles.  And its mezcal.  We will visit the city of Oaxaca market, the true spirit and soul of Oaxaca with the indigenous people dressed in their colorful clothing.  A real stimulation of the senses.

Comida at Origen, known for its creative regional-fusion cuisine to

Comida at the fabulous, colorful countryside restaurant, Azucena Zapotec, where everything is made fresh.

And my favorite dish, Azucena Zapoteca.  Squash blossoms stuffed with cheese and vegetables in a egg batter and tomatillo salsa.  Divine!  Besides a gorgeous presentation.

Dinner (cena) at Asador Vasco, a revered old restaurant specializing in Basque and Oaxacan cuisine seated on the second floor balcony overlooking the main square.

And even breakfast one morning at La Merced market where we will have a tamale tasting, some of the best in the world.  Each day we will be a dining extravaganza.

Our farewell dinner in Oaxaca at Casa Oaxaca El Restaurante where we will dine up on the rooftop terrace overlooking the Santo Domingo Church and enjoy the cuisine prepared by Chef Alejandro Ruiz, one of Mexico’s best chefs.

We will visit many of the Oaxacan masters in their villages such as the Aguilar Sisters famous for their ceramic figures, 

 the weavers in Teotitlan de Valle where Bulmero Perez Mendosa

will give us a special demonstration on how the natural dyes are created before viewing all the family's beautifully hand-woven rugs to 

the Angles family world renown for their hand-carved wood and beautiful painted Alebrijos (animals).
There is an abundance of museums:  Rodolfo Morales Museum in Ocotlan.  Rufino Tamayo Museum, Museum of Oaxacan Cultures, M. Alvarez Bravo Photographic Center,

and the Museum of Textiles in Oaxaca City.

and Museum of Contemporary Art in Oaxaca with outstanding exhibitions that are constantly changing.  There is even a Stamp Museum that we will visit after our day of cooking.  There are cutting edge galleries in the historic center of town.  Lovely climate and fabulous restaurants.  Oaxaca has maintained its artistic identity.  The culture, folk art, contemporary art, music, native dress, cuisine....

An Oaxacan Adventure 

August 14 - 22, 2022

For more information on these two tours, please send me an email with your name, mailing address, phone, etc. and I will send you a detailed itinerary along with a deposit request and plane recommendations.  Please let me know which or both tours that you are interested in.   And if anyone you know might be interested also.

robindsg@aol.com 

 

 

Robin's Crawfish Cakes make for an excellent summer meal

We all have made crab cakes or shrimp cakes but I put together a recipe for Crawfish Cakes that will become one of your favorites.  Served with a shiracha  mayo sauce, it makes for a great lunch or dinner.

I have found the crawfish in the freezer at Whole Foods is really good!  

ROBIN'S CRAWFISH CAKES

 5 tablespoon butter

1 cup onion, chopped

3/4 cup red pepper, chopped

3 garlic cloves, minced

Melt 3 tablespoons of butter in a large skillet.  Add the onion and saute for about 5 minutes.  Add the red pepper and cook until soft, about 6 to 8 minutes.  Add the garlic and cook for another minute.  Remove from the heat and stir in the 2 tablespoons of butter.

In a bowl, gently mix the below:

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 teaspoon lemon zest

2 teaspoon parsley, chopped

1 tablespoon mayonaise

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard 

1 teaspoon salt (I prefer Maldon)

dash of cayenne

2 large eggs

1 lb. crawfish tails, rinsed, and chopped (squeeze the water out of it)

1 - 1 1/2 cups panko bread crumbs

 Olive Oil

Add the mixture from the skillet to the bowl.  Fill a 1/3 measuring cup with the mixture and put on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.  (I tap the back side of the measuring cup to release the crawfish mixture).  Press down with the palm of your hand to flatten them just a tad.

Over medium heat, saute the cakes in olive oil until golden brown on each side.

Drain on paper towels before plating.

Makes 11 cakes.

Serve with a sauce made of mayonaise,  lemon jusice, cayenne and shiracha.

Two are usually adequate per person.  I have had the leftover cakes straight from the fridge for lunch the next day that were quite good.

And without saying, a chilled Cava is the perfect accompaniment with this meal.
 

Buen Provesho!