The Palacio de Correos in Mexico City is such a magnificent building!

The Palacio de Correos de México (Postal Palace of Mexico City), also known as the "Correo Mayor" is located in the historic center of Mexico City, just around the corner from the Palacio de Bellas Artes.

In 1901, the Dirección General de Correos (General Direction of Mail) was made a separate government agency. Prior, it has been an administrative division of the Ministry of Communications and Transportation. Because of the volume of mail it handled, around 130 million pieces of mail, the post office was to be given its own building.

An Italian architect, Adamo Boari, and a military engineer, Gonzal Garita y Frontera, were selected.  The existing old Hospital of Terceros Franciscanos was demolished and the foundation was laid using a new technique called “Chicago”, a concrete slab over two feet thick with steel beams.  Along with this foundation and a steel frame, the building has survived many earthquakes (common to the city).  The foundation was constructed in New York City by the Millinken Brothers and shipped to Mexico in 1903.  The building was completed and inaugurated by President Porfirio Diaz.  For many years, the building had the nickname, La Quinta Casa de Correos, The Fifth House of Mail, since it was the fifth postal building in Mexico City.

Its architectural style is so diverse: Art Nouveau, Spanish Renaissance Revival, Plateresque, Spanish Rococo style, Elizabethan Gothic, Elizabethan Plateresque and Venetian Gothic Revival. The building also has Moorish, Neoclassical, Baroque and Art Deco elements. There is combination of materials and design elements from Europe and Mexico. The palace contains ornaments of marble, plaster of paris and white "cantera" stone from Puebla.

The facade consists of a very light-colored stone called "chiluca" also used in the construction of the Metropolitan Cathedral not far away. The stone was intricately carved around each window and the roof’s edge.   You will notice that each level, the arched window design is completely different while at the same time, the continuous arches add a sense of conformity.

 

The iron dragon light fixtures are magnificent.  The exterior Art Nouveau ironwork canopy at the entrance welcomes one to the post office is just stunning.

You will find the interior with marble floors and shelves and bronze and iron window frames manufactured in Florence, Italy.  The main stairway makes a grand statement with its two separate ramps that come together to form a landing.  Every time I step into this space, I feel I am transported to J. K. Rowlings Hogwarts, Harry Potter’s school.

The gallery on the fourth floor consists of slender Solomonic columns and a filigree cresting that surrounds the entire building.

Due to economic growth in the 1950's, the Bank of Mexico next door expanded their space and built a bridge to the post office to utilize more space within the post office.  With numerous changes to the building and all the added weight to the structure, along with the earthquake in 1985, much damage was incurred.  The bank then moved to another space and the post office was later designated an Artistic Monument on 4 May 1987, due to its unique architecture and history.  With many of the original drawings and documents kept in the National Archives, restoration on the building was able to start in the 1990's.  The architect’s daughter, living in Italy, generously donated her father’s plans and notes which was exponentially useful.  The post office was finally restored to its original beauty.

 I will be back in Mexico City this spring with another group and it is always a treat to visit this grand dame of a building.

The Tunnels of Guanajuato

 

Guanajuato is a beautiful city and one that I have visited often and will be returning to with my group in July.  In the 1700's, it was the largest silver producing city ever, supplying the old world 70% of its silver.  Just outside of town is the Valencia Mine which was the most productive mine of the time, supplying the world 1/5 of its silver.

There is the beautiful Teatro Juarez that was constructed in 1870 and is considered to be one of the most beautiful in Mexico and one that to this day still has its original furnishing.  It opened in 1903 with the opera, Aida. 

The roof is crowned with eight bronzes representing Greek Muses.

The auditorium is Arabesque in nature and is just exquisite.

But one of the most interesting and unique features of Guanajuato are the series of tunnels under the city that divert traffic around, in and away from the center of town.

These tunnels were not primary constructed for traffic, but as a diversion for the “Rio Guanajuato” (Guanajuato River) to prevent flooding to the early mining town. The diversion was required during the wet season, around August, as the river rose and causing significant flooding.

The tunnel was blasted out using dynamite, using the skills and expertise of the workers during the many years of mining operations. The river diversion has prevented flooding in Guanajuato since the construction.   With a damn created upstream, the present day water flow is much smaller and more controlled. The old river tunnels were strengthened, reinforced and converted into road tunnels!  It was in 1961 that the tunnels were first used for traffic, cars and medium size buses.  So unique for a city to use such an elaborate method to both hide and limit traffic.  There are markers in the historic center of town on some of the building's facades that indicate the height of one major flood, some measuring at least 8 feet high.

 

All of the tunnels have footpaths but I can imagine the longer enclosed tunnels can be not so comfortable with the fumes from the buses that pass through.

Stone staircases lead down from street level into the underground tunnels making maneuvering the city easier than the labyrinth of alleyways and streets above. 

 

I have personally driven thru the tunnels a few times and fortunately I have never gotten lost.  But according to local legend, La Llorona (the weeping woman) is said to wander the tunnels of Guanajuato.    Today, I am thankful for my excellent drivers who know exactly where to go! 

For more on the Teatro Jaurez, view my post dated 12/3/2010.