David Alfaro Siqueiros murals on the National Autonomous University of Mexico's campus

Recently I was in Mexico City leading one of my tours and our visit to the the National Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM) was inspiring.  The library designed by Juan O'Gorman was simply magnificent and the murals by David Alfaro Siqueros were an extra bonus to see.  (There are actually three murals but I only captured images of two of them).

The Mexican Muralist Movement started in the early 1920s in which the Mexican government commissioned artists to make art that would educate the mostly illiterate population about the country’s history and present a powerful vision of its future. The movement followed the Mexican Revolution.  Inspired by the idealism of the Revolution, artists created epic, politically charged public murals that stressed Mexico’s pre-colonial history and culture and that depicted peasants, workers, and people of mixed Indian-European heritage as the heroes who would forge its future. The murals were executed in techniques including fresco, encaustic, mosaic, and relief.  David Alfaro Siqueiros along with José Clemente Orozco and  Diego Rivera were considered the leaders of the Mexican Muralism.

 

The Rectory Tower is a Modernist architectural triumph and heavily influenced by Le Corbusier.  A prism of glass facades, it is built merely of reinforced concrete columns and slabs.  The building is the work of  Mario Pani , Enrique del Moral and Salvador Ortega Flores.   (The lower left are two friends that were on my tour).

Las Fechas de La Historia de Mexico o El Derecho a La Cultura

The mural depicts an extended arm with two hands with interlaced fingers and a third that sticks out with a pencil pointing to an open book.   The book has some of the county's important dates on it:  1520 - 1810 and 1857 - 1910.  These dates represent significant historical dates, such as the Spanish conquest of the Aztec empire in 1520 and the defeat of the Spanish troops by insurgent forces in 1810.  The Constitution of 1857 established individual rights and 1910 was the start of the Mexican Revolution.

  Nuevo Símbolo de la Universidad ~ New Symbol of the University

One can see a Great Condor and Golden Eagle biting into a vibrant sun, which represents truth and knowledge.  Note how the wings of the birds wrap around the edges of the walls continuing into the building.

What a treat not only to see the magnificent library but to see these powerful murals!

 

The Library of the National Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM) in Mexico City

 

 

UNAM  -  National Autonomous University of Mexico

Construction of the UNAM Central Library began in 1950 and the library opened its doors in 1956. Designed by the architect and muralist Juan O’Gorman, it’s been classified as a masterpiece of functionalist architecture ever since.

 

The library contains one of the largest book collections in Mexico, with over 600,000 books.  The library needed to be primary windowless to protect this vast collection from the rays of the sun.

The base of the building is made of the volcanic rock on which the building rests and the reliefs there reflect the motifs of the pre-Hispanic cultures of Mexico.  The façades were covered with natural colored stones that shaped the mural titled Historical Representation of the Culture. The mural is one of the largest in the world.

Carlos Lazo (Manager of the Ciudad Universitaria project) was very excited, especially by the idea of making a mural made just out of thousands of colored stones, something that never had been done at that scale.

     “The general theme of the mural is related to the evolution of culture. In the upper part, I represented the cosmological symbols, on the north wall, figures allusive to the pre-Hispanic culture, on the south wall, I developed the argument about colonial culture, on the sides, I referred to the modern age, and on the east side, I represented the atom as a cosmological symbol of our century. I had originally projected the Newtonian concept of universal attraction on the west side. I had to vary it by having to represent there the university shield with the corresponding motto, which, in my opinion, should have gone in the rectory building."   ~   Juan O’Gorman

 

The murals serves as a codex. That’s to say, it’s a narrative of the history of the country and the national university.

 

North Wall: Pre-Hispanic Past

The north wall of the building represents images of pre-Hispanic Mesoamerican cultures and their deities. The theme turns around a life-death duality.  

 

Flowing throughout the entire mural are the chinampas, blue waterways created by the Aztecs.  The national emblem is the image of an eagle holding a snake in its beak perched on top of a cactus. 

 

West Wall: The University and Modern Mexico

 

It's the National University in all its grandeur with the coat-of-arms holding the most central position. Other representations include the studies of science, culture, sports and engineering.

At the very top, we can see a banner flying in the wind with the words the National Autonomous University of Mexico in large letters. Below is one Mexican eagle and one Andean condor holding large shield with a map of Latin Americas with a star where Mexico located.  Around the shield is the phrase, “For my people, the spirit shall speak.”

South Wall: Colonial Past

Depicts the arrival of the Spanish in Mexico and the Conquest, and a dual God and Devil.  It also presents the physical trappings of that period of history, including churches, guns, maps, manuscripts and monks.                                 

 East Wall: Contemporaneous World

Portrays Mexican modernity, with the Revolution as one of its themes. In the center, a model of the atom generates the principle of life.  And the difference of the moon and the sun look down from above.

What a beautiful campus!

The entrance going into the library.

 

It was the perfect afternoon to visit this extraordinary building.

 

An Oaxacan Adventure in March of 2025

 

AN  OAXACAN ADVENTURE

For those who have been on my San Miguel de Allende tours, traveled with me to Chiapas, Mexico City and Puebla along on my Artisan and Architecture tour in the state of Michoacan, I know if you join me in March, Oaxaca will also capture your heart.   It certainly has mine.

After leading numerous tours to Oaxaca and spending two relaxing weeks over Christmas with my husband, it was time to fine tune my dining list, try some new places and cross some off my list. I also tweaked my schedule from my last tour to Oaxaca for I have included some new restaurants, a few more stops on the side trips including one to Etla and much more...

The main plaza, the zocalo, is one of the most spectacular in all of Mexico with its gazebo that usually has a marimba band playing in it at night, vibrant cafes and restaurants lining the plaza on the main and second floor, the Cathedral on one side, town's people visiting...  

We will be staying right in the heart of the historic center of Oaxaca City at the colonial Hotel Parador San Miguel, located just two blocks from the zocalo.

One morning we will explore Monte Alban,

 the Zapotec ruins that was founded around 500 B.C..  

 At its grandest, over 25,000 people lived here.

Another morning at Mitla, ruins that date back to 100 A.D. with its distinctive geometric mosaics.

The architecture in the Oaxaca valley is diverse from this brilliant painted church in Ocotlan,

to the 16th century monastery in Cuilapan de Guerro,

to the lavish Baroque Santo Domingo de Guzman Church in the historic center of Oaxaca, 

to the Museum of Oaxacan Culture housed in a magnificent building with incredible views

to the Contemporary Art Museum that is in a beautiful colonial mansion dating back to the late 17th century.

We will visit many villages on their given market day which is a wonderful experience in itself.

One day will be an excursion over to Etla on their market day.  First stop at a ranchito where were we will have a cheese making demonstration along with a tasting, 

then off to the market to take in all the sights before sitting down for a tamale tasting lunch followed by a famous Oaxacan treat, Nieves (flavored ices) for dessert.  

After we will head over to the Centro de Artes de San Agustin Etla.   

Oaxacan artist Francisco Toledo spearheaded the project of converting an abandoned textile mill into an arts center, which was inaugurated in 2006.

We will take in a cooking class one day which includes a shopping tour of the market. 

Oaxacan cuisine is some of the most interesting and colorful in the world.

It is known for its use of Queso Oaxacan (string cheese), chocolates, tlayudas (shown above), empanadas with squash blossoms...

Famous for its numerous and diverse moles.  And its mezcal.  We will visit the city of Oaxaca market, the true spirit and soul of Oaxaca with the indigenous people dressed in their colorful clothing.  A real stimulation of the senses.

Comida at Origen, known for its creative regional-fusion cuisine to

Comida at the fabulous, colorful countryside restaurant, Azucena Zapotec, where everything is made fresh.

And my favorite dish, Azucena Zapoteca.  Squash blossoms stuffed with cheese and vegetables in a egg batter and tomatillo salsa.  Divine!  Besides a gorgeous presentation.

Dinner (cena) at Asador Vasco, a revered old restaurant specializing in Basque and Oaxacan cuisine seated on the second floor balcony overlooking the main square.

Each day we will be a dining extravaganza.

Our farewell dinner in Oaxaca at Casa Oaxaca El Restaurante where we will dine up on the rooftop terrace overlooking the Santo Domingo Church and enjoy the cuisine prepared by Chef Alejandro Ruiz, one of Mexico’s best chefs.

To give you an idea of the over the top cuisine, my entree,  lamb loin with a pumpkin seed and herb crust, a soft polenta with squash blossoms, sautéed artichoke hearts with garlic butter, spring onions and a port sauce with garlic and rosemary.  So, so delicious!!!

One morning we will have a market tour followed by a cooking class by renowned chef, Pilar Cabrera.

We will visit many of the Oaxacan masters in their villages such as the Aguilar Sisters famous for their ceramic figures, 

  the Mendosa family, ninth generation of weavers, in Teotitlan de Valle where we

will have a special demonstration on how the natural dyes are created before viewing all the family's beautifully hand-woven rugs to 

San Martin known for their hand-carved wood and beautiful painted Alebrijos (animals).

Another stop at the Navarro family famous for the weavings all done on a back-strap loom.

And a visit to San Bartolo de Coyotepec famous for their highly polished black pottery.

There is an abundance of museums:  Rodolfo Morales Museum in Ocotlan.  Rufino Tamayo Museum,  M. Alvarez Bravo Photographic Center,

and the Museum of Textiles in Oaxaca City

and Museum of Contemporary Art with outstanding exhibitions that are constantly changing.  There is even a Stamp Museum that we will visit.  There are cutting edge galleries in the historic center of town.  Lovely climate, friendly people and fabulous restaurants.  Oaxaca has maintained its artistic identity.  The culture, folk art, contemporary art, music, native dress, cuisine....

 

If interested, message me and I will send you a detailed itinerary along with pricing, flight information and deposit request.  I am limiting this to a total of eight and I already have two commitments.

An Oaxacan Adventure 

March 7 - 15, 2025