An Oaxacan adventure in September 2024

AN  OAXACAN ADVENTURE

For those who have been on my San Miguel de Allende tours, traveled with me to Chiapas, Mexico City and Puebla along on my Artisan and Architecture tour in the state of Michoacan, I know if you join me in September, Oaxaca will also capture your heart.   It certainly has mine.

I spent two relaxing weeks over Christmas there and it was a chance for my husband and me to fine tune my dining list, try some new places and cross some off my list.  And I tweaked my schedule for my last tour to Oaxaca in which I just returned from and which I was so excited about:  new restaurants, a few more stops on the side trips including one to Etla and much more... Everyone had the best time!

The main plaza, the zocalo, is one of the most spectacular in all of Mexico with its gazebo that usually has a marimba band playing in it at night, vibrant cafes and restaurants lining the plaza on the main and second floor, the Cathedral on one side, town's people visiting...  

We will be staying right in the heart of the historic center of Oaxaca City at the colonial Hotel Parador San Miguel.

One morning we will explore Monte Alban,

 the Zapotec ruins that was founded around 500 B.C..  

 At its grandest, over 25,000 people lived here.

Another morning at Mitla, ruins that date back to 100 A.D. with its distinctive geometric mosaics.

The architecture in the Oaxaca valley is diverse from this brilliant painted church in Ocotlan,

to the 16th century monastery in Cuilapan de Guerro,

to the lavish Baroque Santo Domingo de Guzman Church in the historic center of Oaxaca, 

to the Museum of Oaxacan Culture housed in a magnificent building with incredible views

to the Contemporary Art Museum that is in a beautiful colonial mansion dating back to the late 17th century.

We will visit many villages on their given market day which is a wonderful experience in itself

One day will be an excursion over to Etla on their market day.  First stop at a ranchito where were we will have a cheese making demonstration along with a tasting, then off to the market to take in all the sights before sitting down for a tamale tasting lunch followed by a famous Oaxacan treat, Nieves (flavored ices) for dessert.  

After we will head over to the Centro de Artes de San Agustin Etla.   

Oaxacan artist Francisco Toledo spearheaded the project of converting an abandoned textile mill into an arts center, which was inaugurated in 2006.

We will take in a cooking class one day which includes a shopping tour of the market. 

Oaxacan cuisine is some of the most interesting and colorful in the world.

It is known for its use of Queso Oaxacan (string cheese), chocolates, tlayudas (shown above), empanadas with squash blossoms...

Famous for its numerous and diverse moles.  And its mezcal.  We will visit the city of Oaxaca market, the true spirit and soul of Oaxaca with the indigenous people dressed in their colorful clothing.  A real stimulation of the senses.

Comida at Origen, known for its creative regional-fusion cuisine to

Comida at the fabulous, colorful countryside restaurant, Azucena Zapotec, where everything is made fresh.

And my favorite dish, Azucena Zapoteca.  Squash blossoms stuffed with cheese and vegetables in a egg batter and tomatillo salsa.  Divine!  Besides a gorgeous presentation.

Dinner (cena) at Asador Vasco, a revered old restaurant specializing in Basque and Oaxacan cuisine seated on the second floor balcony overlooking the main square.

Each day we will be a dining extravaganza.

Our farewell dinner in Oaxaca at Casa Oaxaca El Restaurante where we will dine up on the rooftop terrace overlooking the Santo Domingo Church and enjoy the cuisine prepared by Chef Alejandro Ruiz, one of Mexico’s best chefs.

To give you an idea of the over the top cuisine, my entree,  lamb loin with a pumpkin seed and herb crust, a soft polenta with squash blossoms, sautéed artichoke hearts with garlic butter, spring onions and a port sauce with garlic and rosemary.  So, so delicious!!!

 

We will visit many of the Oaxacan masters in their villages such as the Aguilar Sisters famous for their ceramic figures, 

  the Mendosa family, ninth generation of weavers, in Teotitlan de Valle where we

will have a special demonstration on how the natural dyes are created before viewing all the family's beautifully hand-woven rugs to 

San Martin known for their hand-carved wood and beautiful painted Alebrijos (animals).

Another stop at the Navarro family famous for the weavings all done on a backstrap loom.

And a visit to San Bartolo de Coyotepec famous for their highly polished black pottery.

There is an abundance of museums:  Rodolfo Morales Museum in Ocotlan.  Rufino Tamayo Museum,  M. Alvarez Bravo Photographic Center,

and the Museum of Textiles in Oaxaca City

and Museum of Contemporary Art with outstanding exhibitions that are constantly changing.  There is even a Stamp Museum that we will visit.  There are cutting edge galleries in the historic center of town.  Lovely climate, friendly people and fabulous restaurants.  Oaxaca has maintained its artistic identity.  The culture, folk art, contemporary art, music, native dress, cuisine....

 

If interested, message me and I will send you a detailed itinerary along with pricing, flight information and deposit request.  I am limiting this to a total of eight and I already have two commitments.

An Oaxacan Adventure 

September 6 - 14, 2024

 

Joya de Oaxaca is delicious!

The Oaxacan Jewel, also known as the Joya de Oaxaca is a pre-Columbian Mexican heirloom tomato.

Indeterminate, regular leaf plant that produces beautiful 1-2 pound, yellow beefsteak tomato with red streaks throughout the fruit with brilliant red marbling inside the flesh. Wonderfully rich, sweet, fruity flavors with a well-balanced acidic finish.  

 Pick some up next time you are in the market in Oaxaca.  They truly are delicious.

 

 

Tierra de Sol is a beuatiful restaurant in Oaxaca

What a relaxing two weeks I had in Oaxaca over Christmas.  It was a chance for my husband and me to fine tune my dining list, try some new places and eliminate some.  And I have tweaked my schedule for my next tour to Oaxaca and the area which I am so excited about, October 14 - 22:  new restaurants, a side trip to Etla and much more...

 

One of my new favorites is Tierra del Sol (Land of the Sun) which overlooks the entrance to the Ethnobotanical Gardens.   Spectacular views from the second floor terrace and as you can see, Oaxaca has some of the most amazing clouds.

The space is beautifully designed

and I just love the metal art against the white stucco wall.

 

Our waiter, Ceasar, making the house salsa table side in a volcanic rock Molcajete.   We had options on what to put in our salsa.   We chose pepitas (pumpkin seeds), chapulines (grasshoppers), serrano chilies, roasted tomatoes, salt and roasted garlic.  It was delicious.

The salsa was served with a Hurache, an oblong shaped masa dough that had been fried and topped with Oaxaca cheese.

Len had the Tacos de Lechon - Suckling pig tacos with pork rinds (chicharrón) and guacachile.  Guacachile is a traditional Mexican salsa originating from the Oaxaca area. It is usually made with a combination of serrano chilies, onions, garlic, lime juice, oil, and salt. Despite the name, the salsa doesn't contain avocados – it's creamy from the oil that's used for frying the chili peppers and looks visually similar to guacamole.

I had the Chiles Rellenos Mixtos - A Chile Pasilla relleno filled with pork and a Chile de Agua relleno filled with chicken.  Served with beans and rice.

Both were incredibly delicious and so savory.  The plump raisins added such depth.  A very rich dish and one that I will definitely order on my return.

Chile de Agua is a delicious pepper found in the markets of Oaxaca.   It is becoming rarer and pricey for farmers are switching over to more common Guajillo pepper types that bring them more money.   When roasted, it has an almost butter flavor with an above average Jalapeno heat level.

The Pasilla Chile or Chile Negro is the dried form of the Chilaca.  Named for its dark, wrinkled skin (meaning little raisin), it is a mild to hot, rich-flavored chile.

On the main floor, the cooks were busy at work.  As you can see, the kitchen and staff are very conscious of cleanliness which I found everywhere we went in Oaxaca.

On the stair's landing is a niche with a quote by the restaurant's chef/owner, Olga Cabrera.  

"Esos sabores que nod evocan recuerdos, son los que nos dan vida."

"Those flavors that evoke memories are the ones that give us life."

SO true!

Olga Cabrales brings her family's rich heritage to the table through her recipes and cuisine.  

Upon entering the foyer on the main floor, she has a bakery, Masea, which has mouth watering pastries, breads, cookies...  The one cookie I fell in love with was the Gallete de Masa.  I am determined to make them at home.  If successful, I will post the recipe.

This is just one of the new places I have put on my "A" list for dining in Oaxaca.  Join me next October and enjoy what Oaxaca has to offer!  A colorful culture with outstanding cuisine, friendly people, folk art, museums, markets, murals, textiles....

 

TIERRA DEL SOL

Calle Reforma 411 

Oaxaca City, Oaxaca, Mexico