Friday, February 2, 2024

The Palacio de Correos in Mexico City is such a magnificent building!

The Palacio de Correos de México (Postal Palace of Mexico City), also known as the "Correo Mayor" is located in the historic center of Mexico City, just around the corner from the Palacio de Bellas Artes.

In 1901, the Dirección General de Correos (General Direction of Mail) was made a separate government agency. Prior, it has been an administrative division of the Ministry of Communications and Transportation. Because of the volume of mail it handled, around 130 million pieces of mail, the post office was to be given its own building.

An Italian architect, Adamo Boari, and a military engineer, Gonzal Garita y Frontera, were selected.  The existing old Hospital of Terceros Franciscanos was demolished and the foundation was laid using a new technique called “Chicago”, a concrete slab over two feet thick with steel beams.  Along with this foundation and a steel frame, the building has survived many earthquakes (common to the city).  The foundation was constructed in New York City by the Millinken Brothers and shipped to Mexico in 1903.  The building was completed and inaugurated by President Porfirio Diaz.  For many years, the building had the nickname, La Quinta Casa de Correos, The Fifth House of Mail, since it was the fifth postal building in Mexico City.

Its architectural style is so diverse: Art Nouveau, Spanish Renaissance Revival, Plateresque, Spanish Rococo style, Elizabethan Gothic, Elizabethan Plateresque and Venetian Gothic Revival. The building also has Moorish, Neoclassical, Baroque and Art Deco elements. There is combination of materials and design elements from Europe and Mexico. The palace contains ornaments of marble, plaster of paris and white "cantera" stone from Puebla.

The facade consists of a very light-colored stone called "chiluca" also used in the construction of the Metropolitan Cathedral not far away. The stone was intricately carved around each window and the roof’s edge.   You will notice that each level, the arched window design is completely different while at the same time, the continuous arches add a sense of conformity.

 
The iron dragon light fixtures are magnificent.  The exterior Art Nouveau ironwork canopy at the entrance welcomes one to the post office is just stunning.

You will find the interior with marble floors and shelves and bronze and iron window frames manufactured in Florence, Italy.  The main stairway makes a grand statement with its two separate ramps that come together to form a landing.  Every time I step into this space, I feel I am transported to J. K. Rowlings Hogwarts, Harry Potter’s school.

The gallery on the fourth floor consists of slender Solomonic columns and a filigree cresting that surrounds the entire building.

Due to economic growth in the 1950's, the Bank of Mexico next door expanded their space and built a bridge to the post office to utilize more space within the post office.  With numerous changes to the building and all the added weight to the structure, along with the earthquake in 1985, much damage was incurred.  The bank then moved to another space and the post office was later designated an Artistic Monument on 4 May 1987, due to its unique architecture and history.  With many of the original drawings and documents kept in the National Archives, restoration on the building was able to start in the 1990's.  The architect’s daughter, living in Italy, generously donated her father’s plans and notes which was exponentially useful.  The post office was finally restored to its original beauty.

 I will be back in Mexico City this spring with another group and it is always a treat to visit this grand dame of a building.


Tuesday, January 9, 2024

The Tunnels of Guanajuato

 

Guanajuato is a beautiful city and one that I have visited often and will be returning to with my group in July.  In the 1700's, it was the largest silver producing city ever, supplying the old world 70% of its silver.  Just outside of town is the Valencia Mine which was the most productive mine of the time, supplying the world 1/5 of its silver.

There is the beautiful Teatro Juarez that was constructed in 1870 and is considered to be one of the most beautiful in Mexico and one that to this day still has its original furnishing.  It opened in 1903 with the opera, Aida. 

The roof is crowned with eight bronzes representing Greek Muses.

The auditorium is Arabesque in nature and is just exquisite.

But one of the most interesting and unique features of Guanajuato are the series of tunnels under the city that divert traffic around, in and away from the center of town.

These tunnels were not primary constructed for traffic, but as a diversion for the “Rio Guanajuato” (Guanajuato River) to prevent flooding to the early mining town. The diversion was required during the wet season, around August, as the river rose and causing significant flooding.

The tunnel was blasted out using dynamite, using the skills and expertise of the workers during the many years of mining operations. The river diversion has prevented flooding in Guanajuato since the construction.   With a damn created upstream, the present day water flow is much smaller and more controlled. The old river tunnels were strengthened, reinforced and converted into road tunnels!  It was in 1961 that the tunnels were first used for traffic, cars and medium size buses.  So unique for a city to use such an elaborate method to both hide and limit traffic.  There are markers in the historic center of town on some of the building's facades that indicate the height of one major flood, some measuring at least 8 feet high.

 
All of the tunnels have footpaths but I can imagine the longer enclosed tunnels can be not so comfortable with the fumes from the buses that pass through.
Stone staircases lead down from street level into the underground tunnels making maneuvering the city easier than the labyrinth of alleyways and streets above. 
 
I have personally driven thru the tunnels a few times and fortunately I have never gotten lost.  But according to local legend, La Llorona (the weeping woman) is said to wander the tunnels of Guanajuato.    Today, I am thankful for my excellent drivers who know exactly where to go! 

For more on the Teatro Jaurez, view my post dated 12/3/2010.



Sunday, December 17, 2023

Meet Me In San Miguel de Allende in July for a fun packed week

 
SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE

Join me  in July for a wonderful week in San Miguel de Allende where we will stay at a charming B & B right in the historic center of town.  
Experience the exceptional treasures of San Miguel;
it's beautiful colonial architecture, delicious cuisine, native culture, comfortable climate, endless shopping and interesting museums.  A place I have lived and spent time in for over the past 50 years.  Because of my intimate relationship with San Miguel, I receive extraordinary service, have exceptional contacts and numerous resources in town.
A walking tour on Day Two 
with lunch at one of my favorite restaurants where Chef Anna Lilia will prepare a special meal just for us.  
After lunch we will tour, La Esquina, the children's folk art museum situated in an old colonial three-story home that has been meticulously restored.  The concept of Maestra Angélica Tijerina when creating La Esquina was to group the works into four main themes, to promote and disseminate popular toys and games highlighting their manufacturing characteristics, materials and social function, as well as their artistic qualities, expression of creativity and cultural diversity of the country.  Over the course of 57 years, Tijerina has collected an astounding collection of over 3,500 Mexican toys from 28 different states in Mexico.
More on La Esquina, go to the post on my Blog:   
Link: https://robintalkscookstravels.blogspot.com/2017/12/la-esquina-childrens-folk-museum.html 
One morning we will walk over to La Fabrica Aurora.  The La Aurora textile factory was one of San Miguel de Allende’s most important industrial operations from its opening in 1902 to its closure in 1991. It was the town’s biggest employer.  In 2004, it was re-inaugurated in its current form, a bustling collection of shops, galleries and cafes that many refer as a paradise for art lovers.
 
We will take a few side trips. 
One will be a day over in Guanajuato where we will experience the elegant architecture, 
 the beautiful Opera House, Diego Rivera Museum, 
the world renowned Gorky Gonzales’s ceramic studio and then enjoy a sublime, gourmet meal at the best restaurant in town.  
 Another day we will venture out into the countryside where we will visit the gallery and studio of one of the best artists in the area, Frank Gardner. 
After we will stop by the Sanctuary of Atotonilco, often referred to as the Sistine Chapel of the Americas because of its ancient and simply wonderful frescoes.  
The murals are everywhere and they are truly spectacular.
That afternoon we will be tour the vineyards and contemporary complex of Cuna de Tierra followed by a wine tasting and a delicious charcuterie lunch.
 
One evening we will head over to the phenomenal setting and spectacular home, Casa AguaMiel, 
and gallery of dear friends, Alfredo and Jim's, for an early dinner out on their beautiful courtyard starting with a Tequila tasting, then a variety of mesquite grilled pizzas with traditional and Mexican toppings, salads and side dishes, dessert, wine, beer and fruit waters.  
 
Another day, a hands-on cooking class with Chef Paco at his lovely home.  After our kitchen work, we will sit down, relax and enjoy the lunch we have prepared along with  some regional wine in the gorgeous setting of Paco's outdoor  garden.
The last day you are on your own to shop, sight see, wander around town before we meet up for our farewell dinner when I have my favorite trio play for us over our cocktail hour.

And much, much more! 
 
 
You simply just have to show up.  
I will have taken care of everything.  
That's the beauty of my tours.
It's a trip of a lifetime!   
 
 
TRAVEL IS THE ONLY THING YOU BUY 
THAT MAKES YOU RICHER
 
Meet me in San Miguel de Allende
July 18 - 25, 2024

 

Wednesday, December 13, 2023

An Oaxacan Adventure in September 2024

 
AN  OAXACAN ADVENTURE

For those who have been on my San Miguel de Allende tours, traveled with me to Chiapas, Mexico City and Puebla along on my Artisan and Architecture tour in the state of Michoacan, I know if you join me in October, Oaxaca will also capture your heart.   It certainly has mine.

I spent two relaxing weeks last year over Christmas in Oaxaca and it was a chance for my husband and me to fine tune my dining list, try some new places and cross some off my list.  And I tweaked my schedule for my last tour to Oaxaca in which I just returned from and which I was so excited about:  new restaurants, a few more stops on the side trips including one to Etla and much more... Everyone had the best time!

The main plaza, the zocalo, is one of the most spectacular in all of Mexico with its gazebo that usually has a marimba band playing in it at night, vibrant cafes and restaurants lining the plaza on the main and second floor, the Cathedral on one side, town's people visiting...  
We will be staying right in the heart of the historic center of Oaxaca City at the colonial Hotel Parador San Miguel.
One morning we will explore Monte Alban,
 the Zapotec ruins that was founded around 500 B.C..  
 At its grandest, over 25,000 people lived here.
Another morning at Mitla, ruins that date back to 100 A.D. with its distinctive geometric mosaics.
The architecture in the Oaxaca valley is diverse from this brilliant painted church in Ocotlan,
to the 16th century monastery in Cuilapan de Guerro,
to the lavish Baroque Santo Domingo de Guzman Church in the historic center of Oaxaca, 
to the Museum of Oaxacan Culture housed in a magnificent building with incredible views

to the Contemporary Art Museum that is in a beautiful colonial mansion dating back to the late 17th century.
We will visit many villages on their given market day which is a wonderful experience in itself.
One day will be an excursion over to Etla on their market day.  First stop at a ranchito where were we will have a cheese making demonstration along with a tasting, 
 then off to the market to take in all the sights before sitting down for a tamale tasting lunch followed by a famous Oaxacan treat, Nieves (flavored ices) for dessert.  
After we will head over to the Centro de Artes de San Agustin Etla.   
Oaxacan artist Francisco Toledo spearheaded the project of converting an abandoned textile mill into an arts center, which was inaugurated in 2006.
We will take in a cooking class one day which includes a shopping tour of the market. 
Oaxacan cuisine is some of the most interesting and colorful in the world.
It is known for its use of Queso Oaxacan (string cheese), chocolates, tlayudas (shown above), empanadas with squash blossoms...
Famous for its numerous and diverse moles.  And its mezcal.  We will visit the city of Oaxaca market, the true spirit and soul of Oaxaca with the indigenous people dressed in their colorful clothing.  A real stimulation of the senses.
Comida at Origen, known for its creative regional-fusion cuisine to
Comida at the fabulous, colorful countryside restaurant, Azucena Zapotec, where everything is made fresh.
And my favorite dish, Azucena Zapoteca.  Squash blossoms stuffed with cheese and vegetables in a egg batter and tomatillo salsa.  Divine!  Besides a gorgeous presentation.
Dinner (cena) at Asador Vasco, a revered old restaurant specializing in Basque and Oaxacan cuisine seated on the second floor balcony overlooking the main square.

Each day we will be a dining extravaganza.
Our farewell dinner in Oaxaca at Casa Oaxaca El Restaurante where we will dine up on the rooftop terrace overlooking the Santo Domingo Church and enjoy the cuisine prepared by Chef Alejandro Ruiz, one of Mexico’s best chefs.
To give you an idea of the over the top cuisine, my entree, 
lamb loin with a pumpkin seed and herb crust, a soft polenta with squash blossoms, sautéed artichoke hearts with garlic butter, spring onions and a port sauce with garlic and rosemary.  So, so delicious!!!
 
We will visit many of the Oaxacan masters in their villages such as the Aguilar Sisters famous for their ceramic figures, 
  the Mendosa family, ninth generation of weavers, in Teotitlan de Valle where we
will have a special demonstration on how the natural dyes are created before viewing all the family's beautifully hand-woven rugs to 
San Martin known for their hand-carved wood and beautiful painted Alebrijos (animals).
Another stop at the Navarro family famous for the weavings all done on a back-strap loom.
And a visit to San Bartolo de Coyotepec famous for their highly polished black pottery.
There is an abundance of museums:  Rodolfo Morales Museum in Ocotlan.  Rufino Tamayo Museum,  M. Alvarez Bravo Photographic Center,
and the Museum of Textiles in Oaxaca City
and Museum of Contemporary Art with outstanding exhibitions that are constantly changing.  There is even a Stamp Museum that we will visit.  There are cutting edge galleries in the historic center of town.  Lovely climate, friendly people and fabulous restaurants.  Oaxaca has maintained its artistic identity.  The culture, folk art, contemporary art, music, native dress, cuisine....
 
If interested, message me and I will send you a detailed itinerary along with pricing, flight information and deposit request.  I am limiting this to a total of eight and I already have two commitments.

An Oaxacan Adventure 

September 6 - 14, 2024