Tuesday, January 12, 2016

Fridays in Ocotlan, Oaxaca

Only twenty miles south of Oaxaca City lies the town of Ocotlan de Morelos and every Friday the market is bustling with activity.   It is one of the regions oldest and largest markets.  The market has more of a rustic atmosphere.  People come from the countryside, el campo, some local and some as far away as the Pacific coast.
Taking a break before completing their shopping for the week.
A successful sale of a spoon and a molinillo (the wood utensil on the right).    Securing the money inside her blouse followed by the sign of the cross in thanks to God for her first sale of the day.  A molinillo is a traditional wooden utensil that is used to mix the chocolate and milk together for the hot chocolate.  Made from one piece of wood, there are several loose rings that spin when rubbing the handle back and forth between your palms.
Pottery typical of the area, especially the green-glazed clay pieces.  The large jarros (pitchers) are great for margaritas and sangria and even work beautifully as a flower vase. Aren't those large wicker baskets in the background spectacular!
And of course my group and I had to stop and talk to this nice lady who was selling the typical embroidered apron, an ubiquitous item of clothing worn by nearly every women in every market in Mexico.  Most of us had to buy one.
Embroidered blouse, shirts and dresses that come in all sizes and colors.
This charming lady was from the weaving town of Teotitlan de Valle.  Her stall had an assortment of hand-woven rugs and purses that she is proudly displaying on her shoulders.
And baskets that are so beautifully woven.  I am a sucker every time.  I buy a taller natural-colored one to bring home to use as a laundry basket or trash can.  It fits perfectly into my suitcase and I just fill it with my clothes.
 Step right up and sample some Pulque or Tepache.  Pulque is a pre-Columbian drink made from 100% fermented (not distilled) sap of the maguey plant.  The milky white, midly alcoholic drink varies in strength by its age.  Locals usually add a splash of hot sauce or chili powder, a squeeze of lime and salt. Tepache is water mixed with Panela (unrefined sugar) and rinds of extremely ripe pineapple. The alcoholic drink ferments in three days, then is strained and served in colorfully painted, dried gourd halves.
There is a stall full of leather goods from beautifully crafted saddles to belts.
And no market in the Oaxaca valley is complete without their Chapulines, roasted grasshoppers.  This young man was pushing a large cart overflowing with Chapulines of all sizes.  The Chapulines are collected a certain time of year; from May which is their hatching time to late summer and early fall. 
A display of some of my favorite type of mangoes, the Ataulfo.  It's a vibrant yellow mango with a firm flesh that is void of any stringy fibers with a sweet, creamy flavor.
I love how the small onions are bundled up on display for sale.
I am always impressed by these giant wood paddles and spoons. 
Once inside the expansive indoor market, you will encounter numerous stalls selling bread, fish, dried chilies, chocolate...  There are many stands offering moles, tlayudas, empanadas, tacos and hot chocolate.  The tables between the stands are spotlessly clean with fancy oilcloth draping the tables and fresh flowers arranged in the regional pots.
One place that is a definite stop is La Cocina de Frida which has a picture of Frida Kahlo in it signage and owner, Beatriz Vasquez Gomez, who remarkable resembles the famous artist. 
The day is young, but she is off in another world.
Need your axe sharpened?
On the way out of the market, there is a stall selling an assortment of candles for your offerings in the church.
It is not uncommon to see tethered turkeys or goats for sale.
Gathering around the fountain, the ladies in their aprons sharing tales of their shopping day awaiting for a family member to take them back to their rancho.
It's a grand market and I could spend the whole day there exploring each vendor ans stall.

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