The Tunnels of Guanajuato

 

Guanajuato is a beautiful city and one that I have visited often and will be returning to with my group in July.  In the 1700's, it was the largest silver producing city ever, supplying the old world 70% of its silver.  Just outside of town is the Valencia Mine which was the most productive mine of the time, supplying the world 1/5 of its silver.

There is the beautiful Teatro Juarez that was constructed in 1870 and is considered to be one of the most beautiful in Mexico and one that to this day still has its original furnishing.  It opened in 1903 with the opera, Aida. 

The roof is crowned with eight bronzes representing Greek Muses.

The auditorium is Arabesque in nature and is just exquisite.

But one of the most interesting and unique features of Guanajuato are the series of tunnels under the city that divert traffic around, in and away from the center of town.

These tunnels were not primary constructed for traffic, but as a diversion for the “Rio Guanajuato” (Guanajuato River) to prevent flooding to the early mining town. The diversion was required during the wet season, around August, as the river rose and causing significant flooding.

The tunnel was blasted out using dynamite, using the skills and expertise of the workers during the many years of mining operations. The river diversion has prevented flooding in Guanajuato since the construction.   With a damn created upstream, the present day water flow is much smaller and more controlled. The old river tunnels were strengthened, reinforced and converted into road tunnels!  It was in 1961 that the tunnels were first used for traffic, cars and medium size buses.  So unique for a city to use such an elaborate method to both hide and limit traffic.  There are markers in the historic center of town on some of the building's facades that indicate the height of one major flood, some measuring at least 8 feet high.

 

All of the tunnels have footpaths but I can imagine the longer enclosed tunnels can be not so comfortable with the fumes from the buses that pass through.

Stone staircases lead down from street level into the underground tunnels making maneuvering the city easier than the labyrinth of alleyways and streets above. 

 

I have personally driven thru the tunnels a few times and fortunately I have never gotten lost.  But according to local legend, La Llorona (the weeping woman) is said to wander the tunnels of Guanajuato.    Today, I am thankful for my excellent drivers who know exactly where to go! 

For more on the Teatro Jaurez, view my post dated 12/3/2010.

Pipila and the Scenic Panaramic View of Gauanajuato

When I have my San Miguel de Allende tours, we always make a day trip over to Guanajuato and our first stop is the magnificent scenic overlook with the spectacular panoramic view of colorful Guanajuato.  In the 1700's Guanajuato was the largest silver producing city ever, providing over 70% of its silver to the Old World.  

The Pipila monument stands about 10 meters tall and is a reminder of the War of Independence.  Pipila, Juan Jose de los Reyes Martinez, was a hero and patriot born in San Miguel de Allende in 1782.  In 1810, Father Miguel Hidalgo's forces were besieging the granary in Guanajuato where the Spaniards had taken refuge.  It was Pipila, a miner at one time, who slapped a slab of of stone to his back to deflect the gunfire and stormed the overwhelmingly massive granary (alhonidiga) and set fire to its doors, thus opening the way for the rebels to enter and occupy the stronghold.  In stone, he continues to hold the torch high, standing above the plaque promising "there are still other Alhondigas to burn." 

Today the Alhondigas de Granaditas contradicts it gory past.  On each of the four corners of the building, you will find large hooks set into the wall.  Each hook held a cage with the head of the heroes (Father Miguel Hidalgo, Juan Aldama, General Ignacio Allende and Mariano Jimenez) until 1821 when the Spaniards left Mexico for Spain for good.  Today the Alhondiga is a state and federal museum.

A view of town with the Guanajuato Mountains in the back and the prominent Basilica de Nuestra Senora de Guanajuato dead center and the state University behind it.

I love all the pedestrian streets in Guanajuato.  So welcoming.

The interior of the Basilica with 15 huge crystal chandeliers adorning the vaulted ceiling.  The Virgin at the back of the church is made of wood and was given to the city by Felipe II in 1557.  It has been venerated in Spain since the year 714 and so it is the oldest religious figure in Mexico.

El jardin de la Union is the main plaza is unique.  Because of the lack of flat land conducive to the typical broad, square Mexican plaza, the plaza is a rather unusual shape and it has the nickname, "a wedge of cheese".  Almost entirely covered by a thick canopy of Laurel trees, there is a handsome gazebo in the middle.

 

Very European is feeling with its grand architecture.

A panoramic view of the city.  It's a wonderful entree to the city and everyone is always excited to explore further.

The Diego Rivera Museum in Guanajuato

 A visit to the Diego Rivera Museum and Casa in Guanajuato is well worth the trip.   When  my group in town for my "Meet me in San Miguel" tour, we spend part of the day over in Guanajuato and the Rivera Museum is one of our stops.

Rivera was born in 1886 in this narrow three story house in which his family lived on the first and second floor.  He lived here until the age of eight until his family moved to Mexico City.

The first floor has been re-created as it was when he was a young boy with furniture, family portraits and antiques.

Nuestra Senora de Paris - 1908 

I am intrigued by the talent he had at a young age.  Like Picasso, they both mastered the techniques of other artist.  He was influenced by the pointillism of Serat, the elongated figures of El Greco and Picasso's cubism.  He even had a close association with Picasso and Cezanne.

Different creative stages of Rivera are on display such as his formative years and his cubist period.  Portraits, landscapes, nudes, allegories, still life paintings and mural sketches are some of the pieces you will find on the second floor.

 

"Maestro mono, Maestro Simio, 

Desiaban que muriecen alla sobre ls hormigas,

all sobre las espinas" - 1931

(Master hand, melodic ape, die on the ants, there on the thorns)

If you had shown me this by itself, I would have never dreamed that this was the work of Rivera.  There is great series of these in one of the rooms.

 

  A detail the central section of Rivera's  

Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Park.

(Un Sueno de una tarde Dominical en La Alameda Central)
1947-48

On the third floor of the museum is a smaller reproduction of this mural, a mural that Rivera is most famous for.

This 50 foot mural is set in the Alameda park, the first city park in Mexico City that was built on the grounds of an ancient Aztec market.  It highlights the three significant eras in Mexican history:  the conquest, the Porfirio Diaz dictatorship and the Revolution of 1910. 

In the center of the mural is La Calavera Catrina, the skeleton figure wearing a feathered serpent boa.  She was the creation of engraver Jose Guadalupe Posada (see my post dated July 21, 2010 to view photos of his work and read about this extraordinary artist).  The Catrina mocked the wealthy women that liked to promenade in the park.  To her right is Posada elegantly dressed in a black suit and derby hat.  To her left she is leading Rivera at the age of ten by the hand.   Frida Kahlo, in her traditional Mexican dress,  is behind Rivera with her hand resting on his shoulder as if she is protecting him as he goes forth into the world.

 Another detail of the mural.  I love the interaction between the man selling newspapers and the one selling pasties and sweets.

Another detail of the mural with two conceited dandies out for a stroll and the fancy, well-healed gentleman tipping his hat in their direction.  

I have been many times to the Museum and each visit is a real treat.

Diego Rivera Museum and Casa
Calle Positos 47
Guanajuato, Mexico

Open Tuesday to Saturday from 10:00 to 7:00 and Sundays from 10:00 to 3:00. 

Teatro Juarez in Guanajuato

It was a bit overcast in San Miguel de Allende when we left that morning but in Guanajuato, the sky could not have been any bluer.  Above is my group gathered around a sculpture of a Cervantes singer.

The Juarez Teatro (theater) is considered to be one of the most beautiful theaters in Mexico.  It is right in the heart of Guanajuato in front of the Jardin Union.  Construction began in 1872 and was completed in 1903.  The roof is crowned with a balustrade and eight large bronze sculptures of Greek Muses: Calliope, Clio, Erato, Euterpe, Melpomene, Polyhymnia, Thalia, Terpsichore and Urania.

The portico features Roman Doric columns in cantera stone with fluted shafts that have a capital of carved lyres (stringed musical instruments).

As you enter, you will encounter a most charming, old fashion ticket window complemented with an antique clock.  The lobby is very Art Deco. 



The entry has a large foyer with a beautiful wood bar with intricate inlay.

The five seating levels are adorned in an arabesque detail, each with iron banisters.  Behind the red curtain is a a panorama of Constantinople.  Unfortunately we did not see it. 

 Ricardo is telling us some of the history of the Teatro.  The seats are orignal and are very comfortable.  Actually, this is the only theater in Mexico that has conserved its original furnishings.

At one time, this was the smoking room.  The men were in this area and the women had their own separate corridor.  I like how one could sit on the round settees and be able to see the people behind you with the help of the big mirror.

Ricardo is telling us that the Teatro's grand room was used for all sorts of celebrations, such as the "Quinceanara," the 15th birthday coming-of-age celebration.  The floor used to be all wood.  I like how Matina is checking out the new glass block flooring.

I love the glass flooring.  I think the whole building is pretty cool and next time, I would love to go to one of the performances in October when the International Cervantes Festival is in full swing.

Join me on my next tour, June 7 - 13 in 2011, and check out the Teatro first hand.

A Day In Guanajuato

My group and I left San Miguel de Allende after a scrumptious breakfast at our B & B, Casa Luna, to spend part of the day in Guanajuato.  The Plaza de la Paz is located in front of the Basilica of Our Lady of Guanajuato.  I love the Cypress growing so tall.

 The plaza features a bronze statue by Jesus F. Contreras dedicated to peace (1898). 

 The plaza is lined with some of the city's most beautiful palaces and homes.

When I am in the heart of Guanajuato, I feel like I could be in Paris or some other European capital.  The architecture is so stately.

This neoclassical building is the University of Guanajuato.  Originally is was created as the College of the Holy Trinity with the arrival of the Jesuits in 1732.  Since, it is a government run university.  Can you imagine climbing those steps every day to go to your classes. 

 Part of my group leaving Diego Rivera's boyhood home and museum.

Guanajuato is a maze of tunnels.  The city was originally built over the Guanajuato River which flowed underneath the city.  After years of flooding, engineers built a dam and redirected the river.  These dry river beds, along with some new tunnels are key to getting around the city.  I have known friends that have been lost in the tunnels for at least an hour.  They are pretty amazing.

Finally at lunch,.  Dianne is about to dive into the house cocktail made from the fruit of a cactus berry. She was being funny after we teased her about wearing her visor indoors.

After a superb lunch, Jesus and his wife, Luz the chef, bid us farewell. On to Dolores Hidalgo.  What a day we have had so far!

Happy Halloween

Happy

Halloween !

Robin

I shot this over in Guanajuato when I took my group from San Miguel de Allende over for the day.  I would have bought him, but I thought I would have a hard time getting him into the overhead storage on the plane.

A side trip to Guanajuato

My group and I left San Miguel de Allende around 9:00 in the morning to spend the day over in Guanajuato.  It was a glorious day, the weather was perfect.  Our first stop was the scenic overlook with a spectacular view of the whole city and the mountains where the Valenciana silver mine it located. This mine was at one time the richest silver mine in the world and at its peak, supplied one-fifth of the world's silver. 
The yellow church in the middle of the photo is the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe.  The large building behind it is the University of Guanajuato.

Pepe, one of my drivers, was showing the ladies what some of the buildings below are in the little book on Guanajuato.  Vendors sell these books for 60 some pesos which is a great purchase for is has an overall history of Guanajuato along with some good photography. 

Ricardo, my other driver, was telling us the history behind many of the buildings below.  

The Pipila Monument was erected in 1939 in honor of Juan Jose de los Reyes.  This miners knickname was El Pilpila.  Pipila is the Mexican word for a hen turkey;  he had some physical deformities and walked like a hen turkey.  Two hundred years ago, he was responsible for setting fire to the large doors of the Alhondga de Granaditas.  The Spaniards had barricaded themselves along with supplies and plenty of silver in this granary which was a stone fortress.   Pilpila tied a long flat stone on his back to protect him from the Spanish troops firing on him with their muskets.  He stormed towards the large granary and set the wooden doors on fire.

My group was busy checking out "El Pipila." 

 Guanajuato is famous for it brightly painted homes. 

What a colorful scene.

Once we had shot our share of photos, we headed down to Union Square, Jardin Union, that is shown above.   The triangular garden of Laurel trees is also know as the "piece of cheese."  Next stop, the Juarez Theater, on the right of the photo.

I was standing in the gazebo in the Jardin Union looking up at La Pipila. What a gorgeous view.  What a gorgeous day.