Wednesday, September 12, 2018

Jewels of Northern Spain tour for 2019

Please join me for my Jewels of Northern Spain tour from September 9th to the 22th of 2019 when we will visit Barcelona, San Sebastian and Bilbao. 

Good things come in small packages!  And that is exactly what this tour is, a group of only eight of us.  Fewer guests means easier travel, more room to move about, more flexibility to spend time exploring and the opportunity to dine in some of Spain’s best restaurants.

I recently led a group very similar to this itinerary and it was my sixth visit to Barcelona in the last ten years.  My “to do” and “dining favorites” lists have been fine-tuned over the years.  All three cities are pedestrian friendly so walking to many of the sites is a great way to see the architecture, museums, shops, galleries, restaurants and get caught up in the culture.

 
The first part of the trip will be spent in Barcelona where we will be staying at a 5-star hotel right in the middle of the Eixample district.  
And nothing is better than a dip in the rooftop pool with its incredible view of the city at the end of the day before heading out for an evening of tapas, wine and cava.
The Eixample is noted for its boutique shops, extraordinary Modernista architecture and excellent restaurants and tapas bars.  Modernista is the 19th century Art Noveau movement that emphasized natural forms, bright colors and curvilinear lines that were carried over into the architecture, design and furniture.
You will see many buildings adorned with "scraffito", a wall decoration of the 18th century which is a technique of scratching thru a top layer of the plaster to reveal a different layer of color below.
One of many of the Modernista foyers that you just can not resist taking a peek at.
While in Barcelona, we will visit many of Antonio Gaudi's sites such as the Casa Batlo shown above, where the facade refers to Catalonia's Middle Ages and the scaly roof line represents the Dragon of Evil impaled on St. George's cross.
We will have a guided tour of La Sagrada Familia, Gaudi's final project that is still under construction
and spend one morning up at his Parc Guell, Barcelona's most celebrated park that sprawls across the hillside with views of the city and out to sea.
The tile mosaic benches at the Parc are spectacular.   
One of my all time favorite church's in Spain is the Basilica de Santa Maria del Mar.  
Antonio Gaudi was so inspired by the tall columns in the Santa Maria, he modeled his columns after these when he designed La Sagrada Familia.
We will have a special treat when we take a guided tour which takes us to the church's rooftop.  You can not believe the view!  The bullet shaped building is the Akbar Tower which we will go by when we visit the Dessney Museum.
The stained-glass is so diverse, from traditional scenes, to very abstract.
Another morning will be spent at the Mueso Nacional d'Art de Catalyna with its diverse collection of Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque art.  My particular favorite department is the Catalan Modernisme featuring such artists as Ramon Casas, Joaquim Sunyer, Salvador Dali, Julio Gonzales, just to name a few.
We will have a relaxing lunch in the museum's restaurant while we take in the breathtaking panoramic view of the city.
A visit to the Joan Miro Foundation, home to many of his graphics, paintings, sculptures and tapestries.  Another morning at the Picasso Museum, where five medieval palaces were converted into a museum, which contains a vast collection of Picasso's paintings, from when he was a young boy to his later years. 
 A stop at the Disseny Museu, the new home for ceramics, textiles, graphic arts and design.
We will explore the Barceloneta area down by the water front where you will find many outdoor sculptures such as the Barcelona Head by Roy Lichtenstein.  This is an area that was revitalized in 1992 in preparation for the summer Olympics.
The next two sites designed by architect Domenech i Montaner are prime examples of Modernism!  We will have a guided tour of the world's most flamboyant concert hall with its rainbow-colored light streaming into the auditorium through the ornate stained-glass skylight. 
Montaner's other magnificent project is the large complex, the Hospital de Sant Pau.  A great civic work, this "garden city" consists of 17 pavillions,
each with its own collection of expressive sculptures, murals and mosaics.
The Spanish cuisine in my opinion is the best in the world, using the freshest ingredients.  One morning we will head out early to make sure we get a seat at the bar for an unforgettable breakfast at the famous Bar Pinotxa located in Barcelona's outstanding food court, La Boqueria.  
I have had the Garbanos con Chipirones (chickpeas with baby squid) at quite a few places around Barcelona and Pinotxo's hands down makes the best!   And of course a glass of cava and a cortado (Catalan drink of half espresso and half warm milk) and the yummy pastry up on the left called a chucho. What a way to start the day off!
Tapas at one of my all time favorites places, Paco Meralgo.  Paco Meralgo is a play on words, para comer algo, to eat something.   And that is certainly not a problem when you come here!
The jamon Ibercio is the best jamon in the whole world, it just melts in your mouth served with pa amb tomaquet (a toasted bread rubbed with tomatoes, garlic and olive oil).
The perfect season for the pan fried Padron Peppers!  
Off to San Sebastian on the first class train. On the way we will have a picnic dinner from items bought at La Boqueria: wine, cheese, Jamon Iberico, fresh figs, Marcona almonds... all the good stuff.  San Sebastian is one of the old time lovely seaside resort towns and a place to kick back and relax after a full week in Barcelona.
 Our hotel with its old world charm and grace
 
overlooks one of the most beautiful beaches in Europe, La Playa de Concha, where we will be able to enjoy some swim time in its crystal clear waters.
A view from the hotel balcony, we are right in the middle of the historic district with its 16th century buildings, boutiques and countless tapas bars. 
A walk around Monte Urgall brings us to this magnificent iron sculpture, Empty Construction, by Jorge Oteiza.
Gourmet tapas are plentiful in San Sebastian.
 
A walk along La Concha Bay to take the funicular up to Monte Igeldo to enjoy the incredible views back into town and take in the amusement rides that are a blast to the past.
Later a stroll further down the bay to the massive sculptures by Eduardo Chillida.
Our next stop, Bilbao, where we will stay in an ultra-modern hotel overlooking the Guggenheim Museum.
A view of the Guggenheim Museum and the Puppy from the hotel's rooftop patio.  
The Puppy created by Jeff Koons, is a huge sculpture of a West Highland terrier topiary covered in bedding plants. 
We will take in a series of eight massive sculptures by Richard Serra.  Interactive sculptures that allows you to walk through and around them.  They dwarf you when standing next to them. On the other floors we will view the special exhibitions on display. 
We will dine at the ultra-chic restaurant down the street from the hotel, La Porrue.  Phenomenal cuisine!
Breakfast up on the hotel's top floor with gorgeous views of the museum, river and countryside, where we will enjoy one of the most extensive buffets in Europe, before heading to the airport to fly back to Barcelona.  You will have the rest of the day free before heading back to the states the next day. 
I have just hit on some of the highlights of my Jewels of Northern Spain tour.  I am limiting the tour to only eight.  There are a few spaces left.  It's going to be a trip you will never forget.  An opportunity to experience one of the world's most captivating areas with exceptional architecture and culture, cutting edge boutiques and shops, delicious cuisine, a comfortable climate and elegant accommodations.

If you are interested in joining me, please contact me at your earliest convenience and I will send you a detailed itinerary along with pricing and flight information.

Email:  robindsg@aol.com 



Friday, August 31, 2018

The Harvest Baker Cookbook by Ken Haedrich

Lately I have been into baking different types sweet and savory of breads (Zucchini, Raisin and Walnut Bread and Pumpkin, Dried Figs and Walnut Bread) and I wanted to find some new recipes.  I just recently purchased Ken Haedrich's cookbook, The Harvest Baker.  Before my husband and I left for the Denver Botanic Gardens the other morning, I thought I would make his recipe for Blueberry Cream Scones.  They are loaded with blueberries!  The recipe suggests that you add frozen blueberries because they keep their shape better and do not make a big "blue" mess.  And how convenient, I always have a couple of boxes of blueberries in my freezer.  I did make one alteration to the recipe, I added about 1/4 cup of chopped candied ginger which really put them over the top.  The scones have cream in them (and of course butter) which gives them a such wonderful creamy texture.  Prep time was minimal and they were quite easy to make.
I have marked many of the recipes to try, such as: Everything Biscuits which has onion, spinach, carrot and garlic in them with a flour, cornmeal, buttermilk and cheddar cheese base.  Ricotta, Lemon and Blackberry Muffins.  Creme Fraiche Corn Quiche.  And many more...  There are numerous recipes for pizzas, flat breads, tarts, cookies, pot pies...  The layout, photography and type make it all a very enjoyable cookbook to read. 

One more cookbook added to my collection!

Tuesday, August 28, 2018

A Morning at the Denver Botanic Gardens amongst the sculptures of Mike Whiting

It was a perfect morning to spend at the Denver Botanic Gardens.  When we left the house, it was only 58 out.  Currently at the gardens is an exhibition of brightly-colored steel  sculptures by artist Mike Whiting.  I particularly liked the saguaro "CACTUS" amongst the flowing plants.
The show, titled PIXELATED, painted steel sculptures showcasing the relationship between the reality of the natural world and the simulated world of digital media.  His "figures" represent the fusion of the pixel-graphic world and minimalist sculptures.  I feel I was encountering a large LEGO set.
I am always attracted to this water feature, the orange stucco wall and the blue pots planted with agave.
" Birdie" - an orange and blue theme just like the water feature and the pots!  The artist purposely scratched and exposed the raw steel so it would rust when exposed to nature, making it more like the real world.
This sedum, called Mr. Goodbud, was so colorful.
Whiting's Buck, was perfectly positioned in this forest like setting.
The lily ponds are another favorite of mine.  I can just imagine jumping from one lily leaf to the other (and falling right thru!).
The Azaleas were in their prime!
More lilies.
And more lilies....
The reflections on the water in the morning light were spectacular.
Bird, a steel body painted blue measures 136" high x 124"wide x 41"deep.  Originally designed to be a sculpture in a public lagoon where migrant birds would flock to.

It was a gorgeous morning and getting to the gardens right when they open their doors is perfect.  Hardly anyone was there!

The Denver Botanic Gardens
1007 York Street
Denver, Colorado
#720-865-3500

Wednesday, August 22, 2018

Cuitlacoche, a delicacy in Mexican cuisine

I know, you are thinking, what the heck is Cuitlacoche or Huitlacoche?  Well, it's a corn fungus found on the corn usually during the rainy season or on crops that have been irrigated.  You will find it growing right on the corn kernels, bulging out of its husk, each pocket encased in a silvery-gray skin but inside this pocket, is a fibrous black flesh.  These pockets, mushroom-like growths, are called galls. 

Pronounced "weet-la-COH-cheh, it is also known as corn smut and often referred to as the Mexican truffle and is considered a delicacy in Mexico.   It has a rather pungent, earthy flavor with overtones of mushrooms and corn.  

Cuitlacoche dates back to the Aztecs, even pre-columbian times.  The name comes from Nahyatl words cuitlatl (excrement) and cochtli (asleep).  It has one of the highest protein contents of the mushroom family and more protein than corn.  It is also high in amino acid lysine which is a building block of protein and used to make medicine, known to improve athletic performance, good for ones kidneys and preventing cold sores.  I guess the ancient Aztecs knew what they were doing.

Ideally it is best to buy it still attached to the corn cob, but often it is sold in the markets in Mexico already removed from the cob.  It is quite perishable, so best used immediately.  Fresh cuitlacoche does freeze well and can last about six months.  It is available canned in the US, brands like San Marcos, La Costena, Goya...  Ideally, fresh cuitlacoche is the way to go.

Cuitlacoche is used in soups, tacos, crepes, tamales and bodines.  When dried, it is used in a very different mole in Tlaxala, in the state of Oaxaca.  If you have Diana Kennedy's The Art and Essentials cookbook, you will find many of her recipes using cuitlacoche.  

I like to saute a bit of onion and garlic in olive oil and then add chopped cuitlacoche and cook over medium heat for about ten minutes.  Don't be afraid to add some salt.  My favorite is to make quesadillas with this cuitlacoche mixture along with queso Chihuahua.  If Chihuahua cheese is not available, a mix of Cheddar and Monterrey makes for a good substitution.  

There is one restaurant in San Miguel de Allende, Tacos Don Felix, that has been making quesadillas cuitlacohe for as long as I can remember.  Las Mercedes in Guanajuato also uses cuitlacoche in a few of their dishes, especially in their mini chalupas.  It is definitely worth a visit to either one of these restaurants to try this unusual delicacy.  I take my groups to both these restaurants when I am leading my San Miguel de Allende tours and I love introducing them to this unusual dish.
In the market in Oaxaca, this lady had a beautiful basket full of fresh cuitlacoche, not to mention the gorgeous, long stemmed Calla Lilies for sale.
When there's a fungus amongst us, try it!   
Buen Provecho.