Artisans & Architecture Tour in Michoacán, Mexico - May 12 - 22, 2023

Morelia, Patzcuaro and the surrounding artisan villages have been dear to me ever since I started exploring the area over 20 years ago.  And an area where I have acquired the majority of my folk art.

The capital of Michoacán, Morelia, is one of the most Spain-like of all colonial cities in Mexico.  Morelia has a certain air of elegance, rich in history and the pinkish quarry stone structures are as majestic today as they were in the 16th century.   

Patzcuro is a small colonial gem, a land of immense natural beauty. 

Michoacán’s countryside is a vast expanse of rolling hills, deep lakes, winding rivers and green valleys.  Volcanic activity and the state's latitude position helps create a setting not unlike Hawaii.  Rich soil supports lush  vegetation, with spectacular mountain landscapes, and velveteen pasture lands.

The state has few large cities, but rather is a quilt of small villages and towns that have changed little since the early 1800's . Its pace is leisurely, its people friendly, and its Spanish colonial and indigenous heritage rich. 

We will start this 11-day adventure in Morelia.

We will stay right in the heart of the city, two blocks from the zocalo, in a hotel that was originally a private mansion built in the 17th century.

We will explore the  many museums and numerous churches.  The Casa de Artisanias, the Ex-Convent of San Francisco, contains an impressive collection folk art and crafts of the state.

We will visit the Ex-convent de Santa Maria Magdalena in Cuitzeo.  This priory is among the most sumptuous 16th century monasteries in Mexico, the sculptured Plateresque church facade front being its most prominent feature.  The frescoes in the interior are just as magnificent.  

 

Our first destination after leaving Morelia is the incredible grounds and studio, Candelaria, of Juan Torres Calderón.  This exceptional and highly prestigious painter and sculptor, born in Michoacan, has always been fascinated by Death.  Death is a constant in his work, it appears everywhere in the shape of symbolisms or skeletons and skulls. In 1982 Juan discovered the wonders of clay and started creating "Catrinas".  

Today, he's primarily a painter, but his footprint in Capula is seen in every corner of this small town today.   

About an hour away, we will travel into the wooded mountains of Patzcuaro with its whitewashed houses with red tile roofs.  

 

 

We will stay a block from the main zocalo at a small hotel near the Basilica.  We’ll visit 16th century painted chapels, old monasteries and

 

the library that has a massive mural by Juan O’Gorman depicting the history of the state.  

 

 A must is to go to the San Francisco market on Friday morning, one of my all time favorite things to do when in Patzcuaro.  Artisans come in from the countryside with their ceramics, basketry, plants... You can not help but buy something.  Last time I stocked up on these colorful salsa bowls with their own lids.  Besides buying for yourself, they make great gifts.

One morning we will be transported to another part of Michoacan when we take a boat over to a few of the islands on Lake Patzcuaro.  One of them being Janitzio, an island solely inhabited by the indigenous people.  

An afternoon visit to an incredible enthralling 18th century Templo de Santiago in Tupataro 

 

with its coffered wood ceiling entirely covered with a cycle of 47 painted panels illustrating the “Life and Passion of Christ.” 

 

We’ll go out to small villages where you will meet many of the artisans.  It was Don Vasco de Quiroga who came from Spain in 1531, who was  influenced by the teachings of  Thomas Moore’s Utopia, for he created villages with hospitals and community centers. Crafts were established in each village, making them self supporting.  Woodworking, copperware, weaving, pottery,

lacquerware continues to this day.

A visit to Tzintzuntzan noted for its clay pots, adornas de popote (straw decorations), wood, hand-embroidered textiles and stone carvings. 

Above is Angelica Morales Gámez a 4th generation Master Ceramist, following in the tradition of her Mother Doña Ofelia Gámezz.  She creates old-style Tzintzuntzan pottery, simple decorations in manganese black over a background of kaolin white with a lead free glaze.  Her painted figures depict activities of every day life in rural Mexico.

Luis Manuel Morales Gámez, Tzintzuntzan native, artist, and master potter, has created high fired ceramics for 25 years.

He was influenced by the great Mexican painters Diego Rivera, David Siqueiros, José Clemente Orozco, Rodolfo Tamayo, and Pablo Picasso.   His work, sold in a very few exclusive Mexican shops, is often shipped to Europe and the United States for sale. 

A stop in Santa Clara de Cobre where copper work has been its main craft since the       Spanish arrived.  I have only touched on a few of the artisans that we will visit, the crafts and talented artisans are endless.                   

The typical foods of Michoacán include their famous carnitas, 

corundas (tamales) and tarasca (tortilla) soup, known in all Mexico. It is one of the most varied gastronomy of the country, with many different dishes.  It is a cuisine very attached to the products of the land, such as corn or beans, to which meat has been added by the Spaniards, along with pork.  Nearly every town and its surrounding region is known for a culinary specialty or agricultural product. Uruapan’s avocados and macadamias, Apatzingan’s pork, rice and melons, and the seafood of the area around Lazaro Cardenas are only a few of the gastronomic wonders of Michoacán.
                         

In Morelia, we will dine at La Azotea de Los Juaninos which serves phenomenal cuisine with breathtaking views of the Cathedral.  And that night you will be in for a special treat, there will be a magnificent display of fireworks over the Cathedral!

 

Comida (lunch) one day at Chef Blanca Villagomez’s who was awarded outstanding traditional cook of Michoacan.

We will have lunch at the Hotel Boutique Hacienda Ucazanaztacua, where we will enjoy a delicious meal accompanied by a beautiful view of the Lake Patzcuaro.  

 

Outside of Capula, we will dine at one of my favorite spots that serves some unbelievable salsas with their entrees.  A place frequented by locals far and near.

Our last night we will dine at the number one rated restaurant in Morelia and one that has received three Michelin stars, La Conspiracion de 1809.  I have only touched on a few of the places we will dine at.  Believe me, you will not be disappointed.

The colors, textures and imagination of the indigenous are resplendent in all of Michoacán.  
 

Please join me for an adventure of a life time!

 

 May 12 - 22, 2023

 

If interested, please email me your contact information and 

I will send you the detailed itinerary, flight info and deposit request.

robindsg@aol.com

 

Artisan & Architecture Tour in May 2023

We will start this 11-day adventure in Morelia, one of the most Spainlike of all colonial cities in Mexico in the state of Michoacan.  

We will stay right  in the heart of the city, two blocks from the zocalo, in a hotel that was originally a private mansion built in the 17th century.  We will explore the many museums and numerous churches.  The Casa de Artisanias , the Ex-Convent of San Francisco, contains an impressive collection of the state’s crafts. 

About an hour away, we will travel into the wooded mountains of Patzcuaro with its whitewashed houses with red tile roofs.  We will stay a block from the main zocalo at a small hotel that overlooks the Basilica. 

We’ll visit 16th century painted chapels, 

  old monasteries and

 the library that has a massive mural by Juan O’Gorman depicting the history of the state. 

We’ll go out to small villages where you will meet many of the artisans.  It was Don Vasco de Quiroga who  came from Spain in 1531, who was  influenced by the teachings of  Thomas Moore’s Utopia, for he created villages with  hospitals and community centers. Crafts were established in each village,   making them self supporting.  Woodworking,   copperware, 

weaving, pottery, lacquerware continues to this day. 

A visit to Tzintzuntzan noted for its ceramics, basketry and stone carvings.  

A stop in Santa Clara de Cobre where copper work has been its main craft since the Spanish arrived. 

The colors, textures and imagination of the indigenous are resplendent in all of Michoacan.

This and much more is explained in a detailed itinerary, available soon.      

For years I have explored the area and adding to my personal folk art collection.  I led a similar tour there a few years ago.  In pondering my first “Artisans & Architecture” venture, I asked a rather famous authority on Mexico what she thought of such an idea.  Here is her response:  
    

“Dear Robin – I like your idea for a special reason: The grand artistic winds that swept Mexico for so many centuries are slowly disappearing. The architecture may still stand, but old maestros are dying, and many of their sons and daughters are being lured away from the apprenticeship in the arts.  The artisans who excelled at ceramics, weaving, metalwork, wood carving and the rainbow of Mexican crafts are inevitably leaving the scene.  But because you know where to look, some of the genius can still be found in the secret back country of Old Mexico.  I would recommend most highly that your friends take this opportunity to visit these artists before the scene disappears.  From seeing you interface with these humble but genius artists, I know you have a special rapport with them which will give your friends a very rare opportunity for an artistic experience which they may never be available again.  Buena viaje!”

My good friend, Rick , who lives in Patzcuaro, will also be on board for this tour.  He is an expert in Mexican history and folk art.  He personally knows most of the artisans in Michoacan and has been a judge at the concursos (large folk art fairs) in the state for the last two years.

May 12 - 22, 2023

 

Continents Apart

One of my favorite artisan's, Tomasa Gonzales Sanchez, lives in Ocumicho in the mountains north-west of Uruapan in the state of Michoacan.  I have been collecting Tomasa's and the family's pieces for years and whenever I visit their home/workshop, I never leave empty handed.

I bought this candelabra decorated with naked men and women years ago and I just love it!  The artisans of Ocumicho have a wild imagination and often there is a devil or some kind of demon thrown into the mix.

My friend, Paco Cardenas who owns the best bakery (La Petit Four) in San Miguel de Allende, recently traveled to Oslo, Norway.  He spent some time at the magnificent Vigelano Museum and Park.  It is the world's largest sculpture park made by a single artist, Gustar Vigeland.  It consists of over 200 sculptures of his lifeworks.  This 17 meter high monolith has 36 figures on it.  

Check out their website: www.vigeland.museum.no/en/vigeland-park 

I know that the residents of Ocumicho have never ventured very far from their little village and I would guess that Vigeland never traveled to this remote spot in the state of Michoacan but the similarity of both these works is spectacular! 

This little piggy went to market

When I was at my home in San Miguel de Allende, I went over to Patzcuaro for a few days. The first morning we drove a short half hour over to Santa Clare de Cobre.  After a delicious breakfast at the Camino Real (no relationship with the big chain in Mexico), we were headed back to the center of town to check out one of the stores noted for their copper.  I slowed the car down and shot this photo of this cute little girl in a butcher shop.

The next day I was over in Cocucho, a town known for its huge clay pots.  It had just finished raining and I could not have positioned this "cerdo" between the two colorful doors any better.  He did not seem to mind having his picture taken.  I find pigs interesting.  I must be influenced by my Mom's pig collection she has on display in a funky, antique blue cabinet that she has hanging in her laundry room.

I may be the only one in the family who is fascinated by the pig heads that are sale in the market.  This particular one was in the open market in Patzcuaro.

This guy (or girl) was on display with some Spanish chorizo in the market in Santiago de Compastella in the northern state of Galicia in Spain.   Spanish cuisine has influenced my cooking tremendously.  My husband, Len and I love to dine on Cochinillo (roasted suckling pig) and also Cabrito (roasted suckling goat). 

Due to FDA regulations in the states, you can not purchase suckling pigs (piglets that are still nursing).  Unfortunately I am not friendly with any local farmer that raises pigs.  I did how ever order a small pig from an outfit north of Phoenix which weighed 14 pounds.  I really would have preferred an eight pounder but I guess that would entail  another trip to Spain.  I had the piglet in a salt water brine for 24 hours before roasting it.  It was a bit strange to open the refrigerator.  He took up the entire shelf and he seemed to be giving me the evil eye.  I had to buy a roasting pan to accommodate the length of the piglet and to fit in my Thermador range which thankfully has a huge oven.  It was a perfect fit with not much room to spare.  It turned out perfectly cooked, nice and tender but the flavor was a bit too gamy for my taste, not as delicious as the Cohinillos in Spain.  Oh well, it's just another reason to make another trip back to Barcelona.

Our Lady of Sorrows

Today in San Miguel de Allende and Patzcuaro, Our Lady of Sorrows (Nuestra Senora de los Dolores) is observed.  It is a colonial tradition which commemorates the suffering of the Virgin Mary.  You will find the decorated "altars of Dolores" in many homes, businesses and public spaces.  The altars range from simple to very elaborate that might take up the entire entry of a home.

The use of purple, white and green is used to decorate the altars.

This home altar was very impressive and I can not imagine all the creativity and effort that went into putting this together.  This altar is decorated with flowers, oranges, sprouting wheat, corn, grains, corn, chamomile, sand...

Some hotels have created small altars.

The homes open their doors at night to the town folk.  The visitors are offered fruit drinks, ice cream and treats by the hosts.

Many of the Virgin Mary's were just beautiful.

An elaborate altar was constructed under the arcade off the Don Vasco Plaza in Patzcuaro.  I was overwhelmed by the creativity and all the different elements that went into making this altar: the papel picado (cut tissue paper), ceramics, pewter, mercury balls.  Just beautiful!

At the front of the last altar, this "plaque" at the base of the display was all made out of different colored corn kernels and dried flowers.  It is sight not to be missed, it is the Friday before Palm Sunday.

Huaraches last a long time!

I was in the market in Patzcuaro recently and I was intrigued by the Huaraches, the Mexican sandal, that were for sale in the open market.  The production of leather goods came from the Old World through the Spaniards.  Mexico had no major hide-producing animals such as cattle, horses, donkeys, sheep or pigs.  They had deer and jaguars and those hides were often used for clothing, drums or war shields.
The variety and styles vary from village to village.  Some are made of crude leather where as others are made of fine, light weight cured leather strips and are intricately woven.  Many have soles made out of rubber from discarded car tires.

This gentleman had on a sturdy pair of huaraches.  He was one of the weavers we met when I took my Artisan & Architecture group over to the state of Michoacan. We were given a full tour of the Taller Mexicana which I wrote about on Monday.

I still have a pair of huaraches that I had bought ions ago in Puerto Vallarta.  I have them at my home in San Miguel de Allende and they only come out of the closet when I am going up to Carmelas for a pedicure.