Different perspectives in San Miguel de Allende

There are many fine artists in San Miguel de Allende and I think Tom Dickson is one of the best. The way he captures the light in his paintings is spectacular. When I have one of my groups in town, we visit his gallery on my guided walking tour of town. He and his artist wife, Donna, have Galeria Los Laureles on Zacateros 81-B. I shot some photos of his work in the gallery the other day and when I got home, I came up with a fun idea.

I'd never suggest my camera could compare with the artistry of Tom's brushes, but being a photographer, I thought it would be interesting to show you how the images of San Miguel are many, whatever medium you use to capture them. Join us on our next adventure... and bring your camera!

This is the view of the jardin (central plaza) and the Parroquia (parish church).

"In the Shade of the Jardin" - Interesting on how I shot this and Tom painted this at the same time of day. That is one of many the treats of San Miguel, its early morning and late afternoon lighting is an artist's dream come true. Truly magical.

This scene has been shot by many photographers. This is an older photo of mine for the fountain (pila) is longer painted blue which I miss dearly.

"Day's End" - The man seated probable is trying to muster up the energy to head back home out in the countryside. He has been in town all day with his burros. The burros had been loaded down with burlap bags full of dirt that he had been selling door to door. We usually buy our dirt for our gardens and potted plants this way. And in the winter months, he would be selling firewood. It is long and tiring day for him. He had to prepare the dirt with a mixture of compost (or find and chop the wood), load his burros up, make the three to four hour journey into town, walk around town knocking on doors to sell his dirt and then make the exhausting trip back home.

Again, that late afternoon lighting certainly is worth capturing on canvas or on film.

This is one of my favorite places to sit and watch the people go by, Plaza Civica and the La Salud Church. On the weekends, you will see families from the countryside pass through the plaza on their way to the market. The families will be hand and hand, sparkling clean and in their best Sunday clothes.

"Morning in the Plaza" - Since my photo was taken, there has been some new landscaping. Tom's colors, lighting and perspective are just beautiful.

Join me for one of my tours and I will introduce you to Tom and Donna Dickson. You might even take home one of their paintings. If you are interested, email me at robindsg@aol.com.

Check out Tom's blog and see more of his great paintings at ALOTaboutLIGHT and believe me, it is a lot about light!

The Library in Patzcuaro, Mexico

A few weeks ago, I was in Patzcuaro and the surrounding area traveling around and visiting many of the local artisans. It's a place that is very special to me along with San Miguel de Allende! In addition to the guided tours that I lead in and around San Miguel, I am planning a special tour to Patzcuaro and the area in 2011 (I have not selected the exact dates yet). Patzcuaro is a little over a three hour drive south of San Miguel de Allende. I always enjoy going to the Plaza Chica in Patzcuaro and going into the Gertudis Bocanega Library. I shot this from the patio of my hotel room one morning with the clouds hanging low over the lake. This will be one of my stops on my "Special 2011 Patzcuaro" tour.

Originally, this building was the San Augustin Convent founded in 1570. The library is named after the town's local heroine from Mexico's struggle for Independence in which she was later executed for her participation.

Not only is interior spectacular with it's beautiful vaulted, wood ceiling, but the library's mural painted by Juan O'Gorman is very interesting. O'Gorman was born in 1905 to a mining engineer/artist father of Irish origin and a Mexican mother. He became a well known architect and one of the first architects to break away from the traditional Mexican style. He was largely influenced by Le Corbusier. He built the home-with-studio for Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. He was also a distinguished painter and muralist.

He began this mural in February of 1941 and finished it exactly a year later. Like most murals, this tells of the history of the state of Michoacan.

At the top of the mural is an erupting volcano. I find this particularly interesting because it was one year later that the nearby volcano, Paricutin, erupted. Aspects of the indigenous life and customs are depicted such as agriculture, hunting, mining along with ritual bathing.

Further down in the mural, O'Gorman depicts the evils of the Spanish conquest but also the good things that came of it, such as several priests who brought education and a variety of crafts. It was the first Bishop of Michoacan, Vasco de Quiroga, who introduced the Tarascan Indians of the region to the many skills in which have been passed down to their descendants. Such skills include pottery, copper products and woven wool goods. On my "Special 2011 Patzcuaro Tour," I will be taking a group to some of the remote villages in the area where weaving, ceramics and copper are still the main source of income.

Also interesting in the mural, if you carefully study the faces of the invading Spaniards, you will see the faces of Mussolini and Hitler. The Conquistadors, Fascists and Nazis were all considered the same.

It is an interesting piece of work and one that I know my group will love to see.

Speaking of Clowns, some were on my Tour in San Miguel de Allende

There is never a dull moment when I lead my guided tours in San Miguel de Allende. Talk about laughs and all the clowns I had on my last tour. They just loved to ham it up!

Helene doing her Hollywood poise right after lunch. I think she was just gearing up for the rest of the week!

Ann with her paper mache "jester" from the cooking class.

Gail with her belly dancer scarf on. Do not know the guy she is snuggling up to. But he better stay out of the sun.

Gail with her Rastafarian hat on.

Linda with some dude and what's the deer head all about?

We were touring Guanajuato for the day and the wind had blown one of the lady's hat off. Carlos, one of my great chauffeurs, was kind enough to chase it down. We then got him to model it for us. What a good sport.

Diane is playing and singing along with one of the Cervantes singers in Guanajuato.

Gail again! We are in the church is Atotonilco and next thing I know, Gail is standing in this niche with such a mischievous look on her face. I could not resist another photo. Such fun and so many laughs!

Clowning around in San Miguel de Allende

You never know what's happening in the jardin in San Miguel de Allende. You could be sitting at home and hear music wafting through the air and it's coming from the jardin. One day I was heading home from comida (lunch in Mexico) and I turned the corner, and there was a big, big crowd of all ages watching a bunch of clowns perform in the jardin. Mexicans love their clowns.

The children were all lined up to get their special prize. Of course, they had to pry some pesos out of the parents to acquire it.

Not the best shoe to be walking around in on all the cobblestone streets in San Miguel.

Talk about people!

And my favorite clown, my funny brother, Carter!

Mariachi "Allende" in the jardin

On one of the many beautiful evenings in San Miguel de Allende, I headed up to the jardin with my group that I was touring around town with. We were all going out to dinner together and I told them that I would treat them to some Mariachi music. We sat on the half wall that lines the jardin, soaked up the magnificent view of the Parroquia and listened to a few songs from "Mariachi Allende." Here's Jennifer, from my January tour group, singing and dancing with the mariachis to "Cielito Lindo." It was a song that she had sung in her high school days when she was in the school's Fandango program.

Caminos de Guanajuato - Click on the the left to hear "The streets of Guanajuato," one of my favorite songs! I had a great time shooting these videos.

Perdido Click on Perdido to the left. "El Nino Perdido" is one of the most beautiful songs with the dueling trumpets looking for the lost child. Notice how the trumpeters finally come together. Join me in the jardin for a little mariachi music!

Spring time in San Miguel de Allende and Denver

It's hard to choose where springtime is the best. Well, I have two places. You could not look up in San Miguel without seeing the Jacaranda trees in full bloom. Such a beautiful purple.

Back in Denver, the Pear trees and the Crab Apple trees (above) are just as lush and brilliant all over town. Springtime seems to bring people outdoors. We went to a California wine tasting sponsored by Argonaut Liquors last night. My husband and I love a good Cabernet and there were many to sample.

Larry and Elizabeth were pouring some amazing good wines.

One of their wines was a 2006 William Hill Bench Blend Cabernet Sauvignon that was outstanding and my husband bought a case. It is very intense, yet a subtle cab from Napa with great viscosity to the palette. Superb now and will only improve with age. An added bonus was the price, $34 if you placed an order that evening. Normally is retails around $40 to $50. I call that a price performer. Another wine we thought was killer was the 2006 BV Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon. Robust and extremely dry and I love it's nickname, "Dust."

We dined at Olivea, a cozy little place that serves cuisine influenced by Spain, Italy & France. Without thinking, we dived into our shared starter. So no photo. The Charcuterie plate had three parts to it: Duck liver mousse, fig compote & pickled onions - Pork Belly with tangerine glaze and lentils - Lamb sausage and minted yogurt with cucumbers. It was so good. Next time that will be my entree! Makes me want to plan one of my tapas dinners and have a party. Well, it is springtime and my patio will be open soon.

My entree was a winner. Duck meatballs on creamy polenta with shaved pecorino. Mmmm.

When we left Olivea, the skyline of downtown Denver was magnificent. I can not think of two better places to live than Denver and San Miguel de Allende, especially in the spring.

A busy day in San Miguel de Allende

One of my many busy days in San Miguel de Allende. Here I am delivering the welcome bags for my group that is arriving the next day for my guided tour of San Miguel and surrounding areas. Two days before, I was shopping for the welcome dinner and flowers for the house. I have been cooking like a mad woman making hors d' oeuvres, the entree and dessert.

The bags are full of good stuff. One special treat is the book, Visions of San Miguel: The Heartland old Mexico, which is full of interesting text and fabulous photography. There are two maps of San Miguel, one with a legend of historic sites. The other map is my own creation with a legend of restaurants, shops and useful places to know about (like a money exchange office, pharmacy, packing/shipping store, location of where you are staying and my house). There are my special lists, such as, "Some of Robin's favorite restaurants," "Some of Robin's favorite shopping spots," and more of Robin's lists. And there are more goodies in the bag. I won't give away all my secrets. Join me on one of my tours and see for yourself. And for those who have been on my tours, please tell your friends and have them check out my blog! Muchas gracias.

The Mural at the Bellas Artes in San Miguel de Allende

My last post was about the Bellas Artes in San Miguel de Allende. On my guided walking tour, we spent some time in the cavernous room towards the back of the school. This 5,555 square foot, eighty-four foot long room was once the nuns dining room. The acoustics are unbelievable! David Alfaro Siqueiros was lecturing at the Bellas Artes and the director, Alfredo Campanella, was under pressure from the GI students to improve the courses so he employed Siqueros to paint a mural. Siqueiros was the founder of the Mexican Mural movement in the 1940's. Other muralist part of that movement were Diego Rivera and Jose Clements Orozco.

Siqueiros had always admired this room and visualized a mural that would cover the entire space; the vaulted ceiling, walls and floor. His plan was to create a perspective of the mural to change as the viewer moved around the room. The mural project started with 24 students and teachers under his supervision. It depicted the life and work of Ignacio Allende, one of the founding fathers of the Mexican Revolution of 1810. The bolt of lightening down the middle of the ceiling symbolizes the struggle of the Mexican Independence.

The mural was never completed, for Siqueiros and Campanella had a falling out. Siqueiros shoved him down the stairs (really!), because of a dispute over salaries and the lack of art supplies. The fact that Siqueiros was a lifelong member of the communist party did not help either. The grievances of students were never met by Campanella and the majority of them left with Siqueiros in support. The school was eventually closed down.

The room just screams for a photo shoot. Above is Ann and her Mom, Barbara.

Diane doing her "King Tut" or should I say, "Queen Tut."

It's a very cool space and not to be missed. Don't forget, the acoustics are worth a song or two!

The Bellas Artes, a cultural center in San Miguel de Allende

I was at the Bellas Artes a few weeks ago on one of my guided tours of San Miguel de Allende with my group. I had a wonderful group of people from Colorado and Washington who loved every minute of their time in San Miguel.

At one time, the Bellas Artes was part of a magnificent complex and the buildings and gardens went on for blocks. Originally it was a convent created by the donation of the eldest daughter of the Canal family back in 1754. It has seen major changes over the years from a convent, military outpost, a private art school and currently, a government run cultural center, "El Nigromante", for the arts. Today it is host to lectures, art exhibits and many concerts. The interior courtyard is exceptionally large, especially for a convent in Mexico. Thanks to the numerous philanthropic endeavours in town, this garden has been beautifully restored.

In January of 1948, Life magazine ran an article with the headline, "GI Paradise: Veterans go to Mexico to study art, live cheaply and have a good time." Back then, apartments rented for $10 a month, maids were $8 a month, rum was 65 cents a quart & cigarettes 10 cents a pack. Due to this article, 6,000 applied to the Bellas Artes. The town's population at the time was only 10,000! 100 applications were accepted making the total enrollment 140.


After the revolution of 1910 and the decline of the silver mining, San Miguel was dangerously close to becoming a ghost town. It was the arts that has brought San Miguel back to life and it has prospered ever since.

One of the beautiful, expansive portales within the Bellas Artes.

In its early days as an art school, the students and young artists painted many murals on the buildings walls. This mural, The Vampire Bat, by Pedro Martinez depicts the Chupacabras. OK, what's a chupacabras? It means "goatsucker" and it attacks livestock and makes incisions into its victim's bodies like a vampire. It's like the "Lock Ness" monster in Scotland and "Sasquatch" in North America.

This mural pretty much depicts life in a small town and the school itself. You can still see large looms in the school's class rooms. It's a beautiful building, tranquil setting and the various art exhibits throughout the year makes it worth a visit. But watch out for the Chupacabras!

Joaquinita Chocolate

Joaquinita Chocolate Supremo Casero Tablets are famous through out the state of Michoacan. And I have never had such good hot chocolate than when I am in Mexico! This is one stop that I will take my group to in 2011. I am planning a tour centered around the folk art of this state in addition to my tours to San Miguel de Allende.

Maria Guadalupe Garcia Lopez's family has been making the darkly roasted, Mexican chocolate tablets since 1898.

Here's my friend Paula, standing in the little store which is also the entrance to the Lopez's home. We both could not resist and bought a package of the tablets. Also for sale, where huge loafs of Membrillo (quince paste). I would have bought one but they were gigantic and there was no way that I could even use that up in one year more less five years.

The market in Patzcuaro sells the jarros de barro (clay pots) to make the hot chocolate in. Note that some of the pots are slightly rounded on the bottom and tapered at the top. This is to keep the liquid from splashing out when you are stirring it. It also has a pouring spout and a handle.

In the photo above, on the left, is the traditional wooden utensil, molinillo, that is used to mix the chocolate and milk together for the hot chocolate. They are made from one piece of wood and there are loose rings that spin when rubbing the handle back and forth between your palms.

The traditional method of making MEXICAN HOT CHOCOLATE
Makes: 4 one cup servings

2 Joaquinta chocolate tablets

1 qt. milk

Heat the milk over a medium heat in a jarro (or a saucepan).

Add the chocolate tablets, broken-up, to the milk. Using a molinillo, quickly rub the handle back and forth between your palms. When chocolate has melted, reduce heat to a simmer. Continue using the molinillo until a thick foam has formed.

If you do not have a molinillo, use a mixer or blender.

In the states, you can substitute the tablets with Ibarra tablets found at any grocery store.

Shopping, dining and sight seeing

On second day of my most recent tour which took place from April 6 - 12, it was a fun, full day. I started off with a little history of San Miguel de Allende and then off we went, up the hill to the jardin (central plaza). After touring the Parroquia, the parish church, we stopped into Galleria San Miguel which is the oldest art gallery in town. Sylvia Samuelson opened this gallery 48 years ago!



Here's Ann and Diane hamming it up for the camera.
I limit the group to 13 people so we can have an intimate experience and move at our own pace.  We really enjoy all the sights in San Miguel.


Next door, at a great shop that has beautiful textiles, clothing, rebozas and a lot more, Trudy is trying on a hand made shawl with the help of her daughter, Linda.

After touring a few more churches, Plaza Civica and the market, pass by some of the town's oldest mansions, it was time for comida (lunch). We headed over to one of my all time, favorite restaurants in San Miguel, Casa Blanca. Wayne and Cynthia are enjoying the hors d'oeuvres and a big, cold margarita before deciding on their entrees.

After comida, we strolled by the Teatro Angela Peralta and then stopped in a beautiful little boutique noted for their linen clothing, jewelry and leather purses. Arrieana is modeling the purse for me. And yes, she did buy it.

Not only am I the tour's leader, I have been known to be the "personal shopper." Gail is checking out the purse that Cynthia is contemplating on buying . And yes, she bought it too.

I love the fresh Calla Lilies with the boutique's window display and how the sun light was hitting them. After all the purchases were paid for, we gathered up our shopping bags and walked over to the Bellas Artes, the first art school in town.

Look for my next post in a few days. I will be writing about the Bellas Artes. Photos too!